3rd day photocall at The Cannes Film Festival 2013 featured:
LE PASSÉ (France)
Director: Asghar Farhadi
Actors: Bérénice Bejo, Tahar Rahim, Ali Mosaffa, Pauline Burlet, Elyes Aguis, Jeanne Jestin, Sabrina Ouazani, Alexandre Mallet-Guy
2nd day photocall at The Cannes Film Festival 2013 featured:
JEUNE & JOLIE (France)
Director: françois Ozon
Actors: Marine Vacth, Géraldine Pailhas, Frédéric Pierrot, Fantin Ravat, Laurent Delbecque
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As worthy Heir to a Norse Mythology of tales of deities, heroes and the fantasy genre, the Icelandic artist Mundi Vondi transcended his new collection* “post-post-apocalypse” AW 2013 in a surreal fable called SNOW BLIND.
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What a strange hallucination that befell the guests of Sasha Kanevski's after-party, as the biggest snowfall in a hundred years smothered the Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days' second day in tons of pristine snow. At 1AM on March 24th, and despite the fact that transportation was virtually nonexistent, guests filed into a pocket-sized and decrepit opera house that will soon be torn down to give way to a brand new development. Stepping into the once-grandiose hall, there was the definite impression of falling through Wonderland's rabbit hole into a Nineties clandestine party. The walls were peeling, the clothes had yet to make an appearance but Kiev's fashionable scene was already enjoying this "after-party", agreeably throbbing music imparting a cool clubby vibe. On the former scene, some reclined in battered sofas, happy to escape the chill for a few hours.
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Given fashion's self-avowed obsession with the past and the future, an ouroboros quest that leads yesterday's garb to become tomorrow's must-haves, Yasya Minochkina drew the wardrobe for the trifecta of the Thirties's decadent belles, the Sixties naughty heroines and the Seventies glamorous divas, by pulling together the drama, sensuality and class of these three periods into a fall collection that withstood the test of a last-minute show rescheduled twice due to bad weather.
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Anton Belinski presented twice during the Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days, one teamed with the presentation to the fashionable crowd of the Mercedes CLA, Anton Belinski presented a vision of dystopian urbanity, complete with leather mouth masks, obscuring the chin. A veiled mound, ostensibly the new model, occupied the end of the runway made the photographic riser completely useless, making for a last minute scramble of all the photographers to take up other positions to capture images of the show. Hooded figures sat disquietingly among the audience, a modern version of Poe's Masque of the Red Death. As they set foot on the runway, this cover-up was thrown back to reveal Belinskiy's dark creatures. Unfortunately, the garments did not live up to the anticipation, and failed to outshine the veiled shape of the car, even in the light of the CLA's xenon headlights.
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There was a frisson of the "Big Four" weeks as supermodel Alla Kostromichova opened and closed the show of fellow Ukrainian label Paskal, who only last year caught the eye of Luisa Via Roma's Andrea Panconesi. For fall, the black and lamé proposal put forth by Yulia Paskal for her collection could have been too risqué if she had not gone with some well thought-out classics gilded with graphic applications of metallic leather.
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"Let's talk about the present", says Anna October, lifting a corner on the meanings assigned to this palimpsest of a word. As both 'gift' and 'time', the present doesn't spring fully formed out of a void, and it is from that unsuspected richness that the designer drew the inspiration of her sweetly modern fall. From the pretty midi-length A-line skirts mixing black-on-black jacquard with holographic trim, to the gold 3/4 sleeve tee paired with sharply tailored slacks, to the sportswear vibe of a deluxe shell suit jacket, there was plenty of playfulness shining through the austerely elegant shapes. Even the shaved stripes of shining lurex fluff were more elegant than they were quirky in October's hands. What the young Ukrainian struck here is an excellent balance between timeless feminine tailoring and pop-tastic modern materials. In short, pairings that could have gone so wrong. But turning tacky into temptation is a skill October has, if the shimmery black belted, knee-length "fur" coat is anything to go by.
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