As guests take their seats under the ornate chandeliers of the dim Pall Mall venue, live chamber music sets the atmosphere for another refined, sophisticated Roksanda Ilincic affair. Suddenly, the lights go down and a hip hop beat fills the dignified surroundings as the show begins with a curious mix of retro elegance (sleek plaid pencil skirt) and 90s streetwear (slouchy, monochrome sweatshirt). Ilincic’s play with the audience’s expectations was ongoing throughout the show, from the fur-trimmed luxe hoodies and pencil skirts to the lemon yellow shoes punctuating each ensemble with a pop of colour. The show seems to solidify the Serbian-born designer’s new high-end casual aesthetic, appropriately termed by several editors as sportswear couture.
The loose and easy but still carefully sculpted shapes seem insightfully relevant to the modern woman’s way of life. The undone buns further evoked an air of effortlessness, complemented by the muted but rich colour palette, from wine reds, to dark pinks, purples, chocolate browns and teals, all culminating in a series of brilliant whites. With an impeccable eye for detail (hello sexy zippers up the back of dresses), Roksanda Ilincic offered a complete autumnal wardrobe, addressing the urban woman’s needs for both cool and comfortable puffer outerwear and glamorous liquid silk column dresses.
Not resting on her already made reputation for dressing the Duchess of Cambidge and Michelle Obama, Ilincic did not shy away from experiments, while skillfully maintaining the seductively feminine allure of her designs. Today was just another testament to her understanding of her client, be it a hip young girl or a first lady.
http://roksandailincic.com/
-Maria Dimitrova