http://www.nowfashion.com/ NowFashion Reviews NowFashion Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-19-cannes-film-festival-red-carpet-lawless-review-342.html The cast and crew of lawless walked the red carpet in Cannes this evening. John Hillcoat, Nick Cave, Jessica Chastain, Mia Wasikowska, Shia LeBoeuf, Tom Hardy, Jason Clarke, Guy Pearce and Dane Dehaan, were accompanied by other stars such as Laetitia Casta, Melita Toscan du Plantier, Bérénice [...] 2012-05-19 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-18-carnival-in-cannes-a-gala-for-haitian-relief-by-giorgio-armani-review-339.html Giorgio Armani, Roberta Armani, Sean Penn, Paul Haggis and Petra Nemcova hosted "Carnival in Cannes" a gala during the Cannes Film Festival 2012 helping to raise funds for Haitian relief. Attendees included M. Armani, Ben Stiller, David Schwimmer, Sean Penn in Giorgio Armani Tuxedos, Roxane [...] 2012-05-18 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-18-cannes-film-festival-red-carpet-madagascar-3-review-338.html Tonight's red carpet in Cannes for the animated film Madagascar 3 welcomed more international stars by the names of Natasha Poly wearing Gucci Fall/Winter 2012, Naomi Watts in Marchesa Fall/Winter 2012, Bella Heathcote in Gucci Fall/Winter 2012, Salma Hayek, Phoebe Price, Robert De Niro, Inès de [...] 2012-05-18 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-17-cannes-film-festival-red-carpet-de-rouille-et-d-os-review-337.html The second night of the 2012 Cannes Film Festival started with the red carpet for the premiere of De rouille et d'os, a film by Jacques Audiard staring Marion Cottilard and Matthias Schoenaerts. Other stars present this evening included Eva Longoria in Alberta Ferretti Spring/Summer 2012, Fan Bing [...] 2012-05-17 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-16-cannes-film-festival-red-carpet-opening-ceremony-review-336.html The 2012 Cannes Film Festival opened tonight with a red carpet that was not only star studded but covered with Couture. Stars such as Eva Longoria in Marchesa, Fan Bingbing, Ewan McGregor in Dolce and Gabbana, Alec Baldwin, Bérénice Bejo in Elie Saab Couture, Tim Roth, Melita Toscan du Plantier [...] 2012-05-16 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-15-atelier-chardon-savard-show-review-341.html   There were 300 models backstage in Paris’ Cirque d’Hiver for the Atelier Chardon Savard 1st and 2nd year students' collections show, clad in what looked like pliable slime, dressed in deconstructed football-inspired corsets, glow-in-the-dark-painted fabrics; fabrics with [...] 2012-05-15 21:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-15-atelier-chardon-savard-show-review-340.html There were 300 models backstage in Paris’ Cirque d’Hiver for the Atelier Chardon Savard 1st and 2nd year students' collections show, clad in what looked like pliable slime, dressed in deconstructed football-inspired corsets, glow-in-the-dark-painted fabrics; fabrics with [...] 2012-05-15 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-04-ecole-parsons-a-paris-fittings-review-335.html École Parsons à Paris Senior Fashion Coordinator Patricio Sarmiento was advising his students on their final show. “We have to do it longer,” he told student Hui-Yu Wu, touching the hem of a full skirt. “Why?” she asked. Later, he told Jessica Acosta Lorena, “We have to change this. [...] 2012-05-04 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-05-03-copenhagen-sustainable-fashion-runway-show-hosted-by-erin-o-connor-review-334.html Watch the Copenhagen Sustainable Fashion Runway Show hosted by Erin O'Connor LIVE on NOWFASHION http://nowfashion.com/03-05-2012-copenhagen-sustainable-runway-show-live-event-event-2003.html 2012-05-03 16:40:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-04-20-meet-the-ecole-parsons-a-paris-senior-students-review-333.html   Designer’s Challenge: École Parsons à Paris/Paris College of Art Uncovers Young Talents The École Parsons à Paris was established in 1921, when Frank Alvah Parsons, fuelled by a passion for the arts, launched the first American educational program out of the United States. The [...] 2012-04-20 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-31-milla-snorrason-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-reykjavik-review-331.html From Reykjavik with love – this could be the title of Hilda Gunnarsdóttir's debut collection for her label Milla Snorrason – as everything in the designer's work is expressing her strong attachement to Icelandic aesthetics. A country girl at heart, Gunnarsdóttir came to Reykjavik to [...] 2012-03-31 21:15:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-30-kormakur-skjoldur-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-reykjavik-review-330.html Iceland has not only scary trolls and fairy tales, but also very attractive rough looking men. Or at least, this is what Kormákur & Skjöldur suggested for their Fall Winter 2012 show, when putting on stage local all-stars looking like lumberjack men sporting the finest tailored suits on [...] 2012-03-30 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-30-hildur-yeoman-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-reykjavik-review-329.html Hildur Yeoman's Xanadu was all about a sugar coated world: glitter, frills, a druggy-dreamy mushroom set-design and a hilarious dancing performance. Needless to say that the clothes have been brushed aside by Yeoman's Icelandic fairy tale. To be quite honest, nothing was wearable, but this wasn't [...] 2012-03-30 17:50:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-24-fatima-lopes-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-324.html Fátima Lopes is one of the most internationally renowned designers to present their collections in Portugal and has shown her collections in Paris since 1994. The designer who started her carrier in 1992 has maintained a visionary for the international fashion community, who anxiously awaits [...] 2012-03-24 23:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-24-katty-xiomara-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-327.html Katty Xiomara established her fashion house in 1999 since then the designer has been continuously searching to develop and internationalize the brand. In her last Spring/Summer collection for, Xiomara uses the butterfly as a symbol of rebirth to describe her collection, grooved lines, exquisite [...] 2012-03-24 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-24-carlos-gil-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-326.html It's no secret Carlos Gil is enamored by the golden age of Hollywood glamour.  The designer sought to show feminine yet military silhouettes from the 20s to the 40s, the war movements which opposed stardom in Hollywood for his Fall/Winter 2012 collection. The show began with a long golden [...] 2012-03-24 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-23-miguel-vieira-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-328.html For Fall Winter 2012 the Miguel Vieira women and men are wearing Fado. The designer said: "The search never ends and the discovery is the elixir of life. But more than discovering, rediscovering may be something magical. Today, the search revolves around ourselves, our feelings, our soul, our [...] 2012-03-23 23:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-23-odyn-vovk-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-kiev-review-318.html Odyn Vovk – or « One Wolf » if you prefer the English equivalent – is all about street-style  sophistication. Wagging tongues would have it that Austin Sherbanenko, designer of the small L.A based menswear brand, is trying to copy the dark and sporty style of Rick Owens, Boris [...] 2012-03-23 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-23-luis-buchinho-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-325.html Lines close to the body, enhancing narrow waists, sexy cigarette pants, midi or maxi tube dresses with a Mondrian version, combined  with strong, confident shoulders, and, for contrast, suggestive, undulating lapels and come-hither peplums, short three-quarter length coats of masculine [...] 2012-03-23 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-23-fashion-media-and-new-technologies-lecture-for-kiev-fashion-days-review-317.html Watch the live webcam from the Fashion Media and New Technologies Lecture for Kiev Fashion Days, Valerio Mezzanotti, co-founder and creative director of NowFashion and Elisabeta Tudor, fashion journalist will talk about the impact of new technologies on fashion media. 2012-03-23 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-22-julio-torcato-menswear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-323.html A poem by Alberto Caeiro (Pessoa's first great heteronym) has been the leitmotiv for developing a collection for Fall Winter 2012 for Júlio Torcato. The designer has always found exploring new shapes an interesting way to give his clients and modern alternative. The result is a collection with a [...] 2012-03-22 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-22-meam-by-ricardo-preto-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-322.html Ricardo Preto studied architecture in Lusíada University. He took a course in dressmaking with master Maria Emilia Sobreira and did a workshop on handbags at Central St. Martins in London. After presenting two collections in May, Preto maneuvered his way into the LAB platform of Lisbon Fashion in [...] 2012-03-22 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-21-alves-goncalves-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-320.html The duo of "Manéis" Manuel Alves y Manuel Gonçalves for Alves/Gonçalves, presented their collection for the next Fall Winter collect at the Sociedade de Geografia de Lisboa. The collection defines "new silhouettes, new proportions of curved lines, and intense, voluptuous and volumetric [...] 2012-03-21 22:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-21-felipe-oliveira-baptista-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-319.html The event on March 21st at the Museum of Design and Fashion of Lisbon (MUDE), celebrates the 30th edition of Portugal Fashion. For the first time in its history, an edition of Portugal Fashion begins in Lisbon, with fashion shows of one of the rising names in international fashion, Felipe Oliveira [...] 2012-03-21 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-21-espaco-bloom-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-portugal-review-321.html One of the greatest experiences of Portugal Fashion was the presentation of the collections of a new generation of young designers, Estelita Mendoça, Andreia Lexim, Daniela Barros and Hugo Costa. These young designers who open the 30th Portugal Fashion with fashion performances presenting more [...] 2012-03-21 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-07-yang-li-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-314.html We guess it takes a trip around the world to reach success: born in Beijing and raised in Western Australia, Young designer Yang Li sharpened his fashion claws at the reputed Central Saint Martins in London, with a focus on menswear, before interning for Raf Simons in Antwerp. After this fruitful [...] 2012-03-07 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-07-elie-saab-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-307.html   The Lebanese designer makes perfectly elegant clothes, and is always a name you hear on the red carpet, in the most significant events around the world. This season, his message is specifically "urban", but also specifically Mr. Saab, named "Urban Elegance". Vangelis’ “Love Theme” [...] 2012-03-07 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-07-arzu-kaprol-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-305.html   For AW 2012, Arzu Kaprol presented a collection inspired by an 'internal maze of self'.  This once conceptual labyrinth then manifested itself into physical form to produce a host of interesting looks marching down the runway.  Intricate weaving, sometimes in fur, appeared across [...] 2012-03-07 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-07-talbot-runhof-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-309.html Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof, the former a native of Tennessee and the latter from the town of Mainz, Germany, presented their Fall Winter 2012 collection at the Westin in Paris. The show began with an authoritarian voice recording announcing the importance of the color green and the dangers of [...] 2012-03-07 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-07-louis-vuitton-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-312.html The Vuitton train glided into the Louis Vuitton station; it was impressive and awe inducing. One could imagine what kind of technology and funding were needed to produce this show, which was held inside a makeshift tent. Its passengers were Vuitton-clad models who looked as if they had stepped out [...] 2012-03-07 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-alexander-mcqueen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-302.html   This season’s Alexander McQueen show kicked off rather reasonably: a white fur cape, a pleated white skirt and knee-high cream legwarmers suggested an elegance midway between school-girl and Snow Queen. But one should have guessed from the protection-like sunglasses fit for a science [...] 2012-03-06 19:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-shiatzy-chen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-313.html   Shiatzy Chen’s designer Madame Wang mentioned in the show’s preview that the collection was about Chinese Miao culture and the Year of the Dragon. But there was a not a literally Chinese look in sight at the show; the inspirations had been diffused and the ‘‘global’’ vision that [...] 2012-03-06 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-augustin-teboul-at-l-eclaireur-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-311.html In a special presentation in Paris, in one of the must luxurious concept stores in the city of fashion, Augustin Teboul, the label formed by Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul, presented their collection for the Fall/Winter 2012, named "The Thread of Ariane". Inspired by surrealism, the designers [...] 2012-03-06 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-valentino-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-306.html   The powerful duo made matte black leather look romantic for the Valentino Fall/Winter 2012 collection and turned lace and princess sleeves into edgy accents. Timeless shapes, the referential classic of the brand, become are at the helm of modern style in this collection. Clothes are [...] 2012-03-06 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-jean-charles-de-castelbajac-review-303.html   The eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull – yes, that unpronounceable volcano in Iceland – did not only affect the air traffic but also had an impact on Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's mind. This said, the designer has a more romantic perception of a volcano eruption, his current [...] 2012-03-06 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-hussein-chalayan-rtw-fall-winter-2012-review-299.html Video by BUREAU BETAK See more at blog.bureaubetak.com 2012-03-06 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-06-chanel-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-310.html Large shards of crystal-like pieces jutted from the ground and its powdery remnants covered the floor. Had some kryptonite-like substance exploded in the Grand Palais? A movie with Karl Lagerfeld as fashion’s superman, surely, would be an apt metaphor, with Chanel saving the world of fashion from [...] 2012-03-06 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-05-pedro-lourenco-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-332.html Brazilian wunderkind Pedro Lourenço showcased yet again another refreshing collection. Last season, the Sao Paulo based designer was all about “no prints” and dominant dimensional shapes, this season Lourenço set his focus on a sleek yet constructed surface and on trompe-l'oeil [...] 2012-03-05 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-05-chloe-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-300.html   Clare Waight Keller is the woman responsible for transforming heritage labels into a contemporary fashion brand, she was doing in 2005 for Pringle of Scotland. In May 2011, she was named creative director of Chloé replacing Hannah MacGibbon. "I am thrilled to be joining one of the [...] 2012-03-05 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-05-shiatzy-chen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-preview-paris-review-297.html   Chinese actress Lin Peng was enjoying herself, trying on jackets and bags in between posing for the cameras. The actress, who has come out in several dramas- her next film is ‘‘the Chinese version of Meet the Parents, my first comedy’’- says her favourite celebrity is Angelina Jolie [...] 2012-03-05 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-05-giambattista-valli-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-301.html   Lines and squares abounded on the Giambatitsta Valli runway, where there was little color, save for red, maroon and touches of gold. A long-sleeved dark maroon dress with speckles of black sparkled as if a disco ball’s gleaming surface had come undone and slightly showered the fabric. The [...] 2012-03-05 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-05-leonard-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-298.html   The race for Dior's next designer goes on! After the latest rumors stating first that Raf Simons, then that Haider Ackermann would be taking the infamous job, the newest drama concerns no other than Léonard's freshly nominated creative director Maxime Simoens, who is rumored to leave the [...] 2012-03-05 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-04-kenzo-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-296.html   For the fall-winter collection presented at the Université Pierre et Marie Curie in Paris, the designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim distributed their guest on five of the multicolored floors of the modern building. While the guest savored delicious chocolates cup cakes-offered for the [...] 2012-03-04 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-04-hermes-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-292.html   This season, Christophe Lemaire perpetuated the brand’s equestrian history by exploring all-American ranch culture. The show kicked off with loose leather trousers tucked into boots, and a large navy fringed blanket worn round the shoulders and clipped at the neck. The collection [...] 2012-03-04 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-04-issey-miyake-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-293.html   This was the second collection for Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the designer who has taken creative control at Issey Miyake the last summer. The show captured the crowd's attention with an ingenious line-up of shrink-wrap pleated dresses at Paris Fashion Week on Sunday. Designed from a new house [...] 2012-03-04 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-04-alexis-mabille-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-295.html When Alexis Mabille was propelled into the spotlight two years ago, his bowties immediately garnered attention. They’ve become part of the label’s visual identity and the designer played them up this season in a collection entitled, Let me be Bow-Bo.  ‘’It’s a mix of things from [...] 2012-03-04 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-03-jean-paul-gaultier-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-290.html   Jean Paul Gaultier for F/W 2012-13, conjured visions of New York to create the collection, the parisian glamour with a touch of decadence and the absolute creativity of the Silver Factory era comprised all of the ingredients used to create the looks showed on the runway-and Nico for the [...] 2012-03-03 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-03-comme-des-garcons-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-291.html   For her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, Rei Kawakubo, wanted to keep the sun shining.  Models marched down the runway like a series of Russian dolls aided by bold vibrant colours and oversized cuts (short, luminescent wigs included!). Jackets, trousers and three-quarter length [...] 2012-03-03 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-03-viktor-rolf-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-294.html   The huge full moon in the background, the melodic music, and the pajama-inspired looks reminded us of the night, and as the fur-trimmed lingerie-inspired dresses came out, we were tempted to imagine that this collection was about eveningwear more than anything else. But then there were the [...] 2012-03-03 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-03-haider-ackermann-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-288.html   There is always a a certain magic in the air, an enigmatic atmosphere that sets the tone of Haider Ackermann shows. This season's défilé held in the sumptuous “Salons de l'Hôtel de Ville” was no different.   His gently lengthened, sharp and impeccably tailored silhouettes are [...] 2012-03-03 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-lanvin-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-285.html       Alber Elbaz in the tenth anniversary of his tenure at Lanvin! Everybody in fashion loves Mr. Elbaz, a charming and utterly enthusiastic designer who ensures his audience is having a good time. This year he invited every guest at his runway show to his giant anniversary [...] 2012-03-02 20:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-amaya-arzuaga-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-284.html     For her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection the Spanish designer, Amaya Arzuaga, appealed to the refined woman. Garish colour schemes were replaced with attention to detail that nipped and tucked dresses in subtle yet unique ways. Throughout the collection dresses and skirts were key. [...] 2012-03-02 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-maison-martin-margiela-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-286.html   Ever since Maison Martin Margiela is related to Renzo Rosso's holding group, their fashion shows have not only become gigantic happening full of A-list people but also heading into a more commercial, less conceptual direction. This said, there is nothing wrong with being more accessible! On [...] 2012-03-02 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-isabel-marant-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-283.html   Howdy partner! After a journey around the world, all dressed-up like a bohemian travelette for the spring 2012 season, the Isabel Marant woman takes a break of her free-spirit jet setting in order to settle down in Paris, Texas. She loves to ride bulls, drink gin and smoke Winstons while [...] 2012-03-02 15:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-christian-dior-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-289.html   "Soft modernity" was Gaytten's theme. It was a notion whose nebulosity dogged the catwalk, where deflated New Look looks simultaneously evoked Dior's stellar past. Pure shapes are given a rounded femininity, playing with texture and tone create a contemporary, luxurious [...] 2012-03-02 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-02-hussein-chalayan-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-308.html   Hussein Chalayan’s AW2012 collection was about structure and form. Ensembles looked as if they’d been made during a highly advanced origami class with certain parts cleverly  slipping round or nipping into others. Other outfits had gapping holes left open to reveal the layers [...] 2012-03-02 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-bernhard-willhem-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-275.html   Bernhard Willhelm’s Autmn/Winter 2012 collection saw girls in transit making heads turn. The unfinished and ever-changing ensembles passing by to German techno looked as if they’d just come out of an acid trip from Gilliam’s 1998 ‘Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas’; half painted [...] 2012-03-01 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-rick-owens-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-280.html   For several seasons now, Rick Owens’ womenswear shows had been described by the Shakespearean quote ‘Take thee to a nunnery’. In other word, ecclesiastical chic and heavy black lengths. This season, he further experimented with holy matters by referencing several various orders of [...] 2012-03-01 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-balmain-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-287.html     Olivier Rousteing’s first collection as designer of Balmain last season had less tattered-come-glitzy looks that its previous designer injected into the brand making it a must-have for those who coveted a sexy, don’t-give-a-fuck, wild child image. The designer mentioned in an [...] 2012-03-01 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-ann-demeulemeester-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-279.html   Ann Demeulemesteer excels at somber, timeless garments. This season’s theme of the ‘Dark Ages’ hence fit her like a glove. The collection she presented yesterday was, it seemed, a tad Joan of Arc inspired: androgynous, warrior-like garments, in an almost monochrome palette. Gloomy [...] 2012-03-01 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-manish-arora-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-274.html   Manish Arora has skillfully blended street style and urban ladscapes to sculpt silhouettes in a collection full of contrasts. Appropriately, Fall Winter 2012's mise-en-scène was in an industrial open-air space on the river where a hoodie-clad crew—Parisian graffiti artists Rude, Vizion, [...] 2012-03-01 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-carven-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-277.html   To this season’s medieval style, Guillaume Henry only kept a handful of paintings and rosettes. The collection was more paired down than the last, stripped from the bags, accessories of all sorts, and neckpieces he usually revels in. Instead, the young French designer redefined and [...] 2012-03-01 10:45:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-03-01-balenciaga-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-282.html   As Nicholas Ghesquiere continues to grow Balenciaga after reviving it, his designs- lego-like stilettos, pants like fashionable riding trousers paired with blouson-tops, printed scuba-gearlike wear, mini dresses structured like oversized corsets, the iconic motorcycle bag, and others- [...] 2012-03-01 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-mugler-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-278.html   There is some kind of fashionable darwinism in Mugler's autumn-winter 2012/13 collection: With time, only the strongest silhouettes – the ones that have proven to be efficient in the past – are allowed on the runway. The theatrical shapes, the exaggerated and stylized proportions; but [...] 2012-02-29 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-gareth-pugh-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-272.html   Gareth Pugh has a love of all things dark, his fierce looks suggest a world where the faith of the people lies in female strength. Pugh showed us fur and fringing in variations and created a liquid silhouette. The spectacle began with and bang - grey petals exploded from the ceiling and [...] 2012-02-29 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-felipe-oliveira-baptista-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-276.html   You have to love Felipe Oliveira Baptista! Thereby, we are not only referring to his very coherent yet nonchalant collections, but also to the designer himself: no one else but Baptista gets through with mixing Azealia Banks to baile funk beats as a musical understatement of his shows. The [...] 2012-02-29 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-dries-van-noten-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-281.html   It felt like the old world. Not old fashioned, but a world replete with the kind of slowness of pace and ambience one can associate with a time when, according to historical accounts, models’ numbers were called out, they twirled in their couture dresses, and the clothing was close enough [...] 2012-02-29 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-damir-doma-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-273.html   The Autumn-Winter 2012/13 woman of Damir Doma is an ambiguous one: armor-shaped looks give her strength and yet delicate fabrics and nonchalant fittings make her look fragile. Through both vulnerable and strong silhouettes, Doma's autumnal wear expresses contemporary femininity. The show [...] 2012-02-29 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-29-devastee-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-271.html   The designer duo Ophélie Klere and Francois Alary offered a collection that states – as always – the darker, the better. This said, not one single silhouette is too obvious, as Dévastée's collections always come with a sweet, somehow cynical aftertaste taste – jovial enough to [...] 2012-02-29 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-28-steffie-christiaens-ready-t0-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-269.html   When asked the source of inspiration for her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, Steffie Christiaens had one word. ‘Ice’. After a few more probing questions it surfaced that the designer had gone as far as putting dressed up dolls in freezers to closely anaylse different structures and [...] 2012-02-28 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-28-anthony-vaccarello-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-paris-review-268.html It would be inaccurate to say that the fabric was wrapped around the body like origami - too stiff - and besides, even though there were numerous angular shapes- in a triangle shape perfectly cupping the left breast as the right shoulder was cloaked in half a jacket, for instance- there was nothing [...] 2012-02-28 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-28-cedric-charlier-ready-to-wear-fall-winte-2012-paris-review-270.html   After four wildly appraised collections at Cacharel, Cédric Charlier launched his own line this season. Moving away from the prints and bright hues he experimented with at the French label, he introduced a stricter, fearless woman: slick, military cuts in black and blues were punctuated by [...] 2012-02-28 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-28-chicca-lualdi-beequeen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-315.html The collection starts with a path inspired to the essential, a vocation for minimal which is then enriched by contaminations from the sixties in volumes and by hints taken from contemporary arts by toyo ito and his geometries. A vision of fashion in which modernity is brought out by the linearity [...] 2012-02-28 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-27-cedric-charlier-fall-winter-2012-preview-review-265.html In the meantime, while we wait for the first fashion show by Cedric Charlier for his Fall Winter 2012 collection, here are the images from the exclusive meeting with NowFashion during the fitting in his atelier in Paris. Click here to access the live streaming of photos of Cedric Charlier first [...] 2012-02-27 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-27-robert0-cavalli-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-267.html   First on the runway for Roberto Cavalli’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection were glam-rock biker chicks; sumptuous feather minis, lots of sparkle and sequins accompanied by leather evening gloves. The fact that the first wave of models all sported the season’s latest thick-rimmed sunglasses [...] 2012-02-27 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-26-dolce-gabbana-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-261.html   The duo - Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana Once again found themselves plucking ideas from Domenico's native Sicily for their Fall Winter 2012 Collection, specifically its baroque religious traditions. It was as if the black capes and velvet dresses had been dipped in gold, each and [...] 2012-02-26 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-26-trussardi-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-264.html   Trussardi’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was living proof that Umit Bennan was the smartest HR choice in a long time. The show opened as a blank canvas with a selection of outfits in white and ivory setting the foundation for the subsequent burst of colour; reds, ocre and orange were [...] 2012-02-26 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-26-marni-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-260.html   As always, Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni designed a collection for a woman forever lingering between adolescence and adulthood – a fearless babydoll, a candid femme fatale. This collection embodied this spirit to a T: it kicked off with its trademark neo-60s touch – [...] 2012-02-26 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-24-versace-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-256.html Forget last season’s neoprene and mermaid prints: for Fall Winter 2012 Versace went for something a little more somber. Visibly inspired by the recent blockbuster ‘Millennium’ by David Fincher and its leading, emo-friendly actress Rooney Mara, the show kicked off with all-black, Goth [...] 2012-02-24 19:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-24-just-cavalli-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-259.html   Just Cavalli takes a leopard print runway, some wild animal and tropical patterns, the fury of rock and roll with the right dose of sixties mood to capture the attention of the younger fans. Starting with a group of black and white looks, including a flirty, draped zebra print dress and a [...] 2012-02-24 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-24-etro-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-254.html   For it’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection Etro remained true to its signature style; intricate motifs were here, there and everywhere, most notably on the collection’s elegant floor length gowns. That said, the colour choice was more subdued than usual thus allowing for greater attention [...] 2012-02-24 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-24-moschino-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-262.html   The eye-popping colour and babydoll and A-line silhouettes in the Moschino Fall Winter 2012 collection show had a very strong 60s vibe, not least because it was styled with beehive hair. Short satin dresses with ruffled skirts- also styled with the beehive- felt very promlike, not least due [...] 2012-02-24 09:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-23-maurizio-pecoraro-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-258.html 2012-02-23 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-23-prada-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-250.html Ugly is the new pretty and maxi is the new prim, according to Muccia Prada that is. On each look today proportions were pushed and pulled. Everything from buttons to waistlines and rims on sunglasses had been tinkered with, almost as if the collection was designed first then the team stood back and [...] 2012-02-23 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-23-ermanno-scervino-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-249.html   When Ermanno Scervino’s models came marching down the runway for the Fall Winter 2012/13 collection it seemed as if the cavalry had arrived. Strong looks and somber colours; olive, khaki and moss greens dominated the first part of the show along with heavy winter coats and high-waisted [...] 2012-02-23 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-23-fendi-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-251.html The dark arts of creativity. Alchemy was certainly afoot today at Fendi as Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld's team delivered a very cool, dare one say edgy winters collection made from the brands signature elements, pelt and skins. Other textures were folded into the mix, a little velvet [...] 2012-02-23 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-23-max-mara-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-263.html   Out came the coats- tailored in soft cashmeres, angora, leather, and pinstripes. It was, as usual, a veritable feast of outerwear offerings in the Fall Winter 2012 Max Mara show. A croc-printed leather version gave way to more classic ankle-length versions, a familiar brand staple, and then [...] 2012-02-23 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-22-francesco-scognamiglio-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-257.html   There was what looked like a set of lungs in the Francesco Scognamiglio show accenting shirts, first as a print and then manifesting itself as actual objects on blouses. It added a surrealist touch to a collection filled with sharply-tailored pieces.  A white dress with black prints [...] 2012-02-22 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-22-n-21-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-247.html   As usual, cool kids on the block, N°21, brought a wave of minimalism as an alternative to Milan’s usually sultry chic. The show kicked off with plenty of speckled earth tones wools – think zipped up khaki cardigans topped with a lapel-free and button-free pepper jacket, worn with [...] 2012-02-22 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-22-gucci-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-milan-review-246.html   To begin Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2012 Frida Giannini for Gucci showed her dark but romantic side for the legendary brand with a collection inspired by the resurgent Art Nouveau revival of the 1970s. Giannini played on transparency by using lots of velvet which made up appliqué [...] 2012-02-22 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-22-christopher-shannon-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-253.html Set against a Julie Verhoeven tableau (that featured real people) and to music by Shannon's obsession Sinead O'Connor followed by old school rave, menswear designer Christopher Shannon is a crowd favourite amongst the London menswear shows. But do any of these references matter when we're here to [...] 2012-02-22 11:15:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-21-meadham-kirchhoff-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-252.html Bonkers on a stick. But hold up there, in amongst all the colour pandemonium and neenaw-neenaw of a style ambulance screetching up to a Dalston fancy dress party that's exploded from too much acid punch, there are bits and pieces to consider here that were a delight: the carefully dyed furs giving [...] 2012-02-21 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-21-roksanda-ilincic-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-241.html As guests take their seats under the ornate chandeliers of the dim Pall Mall venue, live chamber music sets the atmosphere for another refined, sophisticated Roksanda Ilincic affair. Suddenly, the lights go down and a hip hop beat fills the dignified surroundings as the show begins with a curious [...] 2012-02-21 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-21-mary-katrantzou-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-245.html   Katrantzou, a Central Saint Martins print graduate and winner of the Emerging Talent Awards at last year’s British Fashion Awards, is quickly gaining a well deserved reputation as the queen of digital prints.   Although she isn’t single-handedly responsible for the fact that [...] 2012-02-21 09:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-20-mcq-alexander-mcqueen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-304.html   This fall, Sarah Burton took us deep into the woods for a night of gothic romance, spooky ambience, and dark glamour. The carpet of faded autumn leaves crunched underfoot as guests took their seats in what felt like a Grimm fairy-tale setting. As the lights went down, what took place was a [...] 2012-02-20 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-20-giles-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-240.html Giles Deacon’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection brought Victorian opulence with a modern twist while contrasting androgyny with all things feminine.  The first look on the runway was masked with masculinity - a perfectly tailored suit trouser nipped in all the right places and a velvet black [...] 2012-02-20 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-20-burberry-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-248.html   There was a vivid air of anticipation not felt in other shows of the season, in due partly to the who’s who milling about- famous actors and pop stars, gorgeous socialites- and partly to the brand’s status. Burberry is, after all, one of the oldest heritage brands in the world to still [...] 2012-02-20 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-20-michael-van-der-ham-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-235.html The alumni of Central Saint Martin’s prestigious MA, Michael Van Der Ham, demonstrated to his audience that he is on route to finding his niche. Once again his unique prints made their way onto the runway, this time more fluid and feminine than in previous collections. Colour was also in [...] 2012-02-20 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-20-pringle-of-scotland-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-234.html The iconic brand founded in 1815 presented a collection inspired by the return of Alistair Carr (the new creative director) to England and the memories of his youth. This collection recounted early nineties looks with a splash of light as it reinvented the school uniform by using waffle knit [...] 2012-02-20 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-acne-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-243.html The Fall Winter 2012 show was inspired by something loftier than fashion: art. Three  artists were referenced, mainly ‘‘André Kertész, who took distorted nude pictures in the 1930’s,’’ said designer Johnny Johansson backstage after the show. The photographer’s work clearly [...] 2012-02-19 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-paul-smith-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-237.html Paul Smith said that the Fall Winter 2012 collection emphasised what he does best: pieces to wear for seasons to come, to be matched with what he’s created in seasons past. ‘‘There is a continuity in my brand and in this collection I’m doing what I do best.’’ That familiar Paul Smith [...] 2012-02-19 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-thomas-tait-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-244.html   In a warehouse in the east end, guests are served tea upon arrival as they take their seats across the grassy path that is the catwalk. It’s cold but there is a palpable buzz of curiosity; ever since Thomas Tait’s graduation from Central Saint Martins as the youngest designer to come [...] 2012-02-19 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-vivienne-westwood-red-label-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-239.html Under the more intimate setting of Goldsmith’s Hall, what we saw was a quieter and subdued, though still very true to Vivienne Westwood’s signatures, collection. Gone were the huge crowns, tribal make-up, punk slogans; instead, the show was an expression of Britness, in all its classic and [...] 2012-02-19 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-marios-schwab-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-236.html Silhouettes were simple, with sensual overtones in body-hugging dresses; lines were straight, with hems ending at the knee. But one could only imagine the time and energy it took to conceptualise the Marios Schwab Fall Winter 2012 collection, which utilised leather, wool, silk, beading, biomorphic [...] 2012-02-19 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-19-mulberry-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-242.html Furry tales at Mulberry! And when we say furry, we don't refer to clothes only, even the first row benches of the show held at Claridge's Ballroom were covered with black goat hair. Newcomer Azealia Banks and everybody's darling Lana Del Rey – who just got a brand new Mulberry bag named after her [...] 2012-02-19 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-18-todd-lynn-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-232.html   As with seasons past, it was about well-tailored pieces and construction in Todd Lynn’s Fall Winter 2012 collection. Jackets included deconstructed lapels that extended down past the hem, and pockets placed outside the jacket. A flat origami shape on the torso of a blue jacket hugged the [...] 2012-02-18 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-18-house-of-holland-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-255.html   The looks in the Fall Winter 2012 House of Holland show were characteristic of the label, whose clothing is rivaled only by the words it uses. Take the first collection, in Fall 2007, entitled One Trick Pony, in which Tshirts were emblazoned with slogans I’ve Got More Than A Handful for [...] 2012-02-18 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-18-moschino-cheap-and-chic-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-238.html The Italian brand’s first showing in London felt right in place. From the ultra-feminine A-line coats, beehives, and glitter frosted lips to the live performance of British singer Lianne La Havas, it was clear that the show had a 60s London girl at its heart. In their typical humorous style [...] 2012-02-18 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-17-felder-felder-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-london-review-233.html Inspired by Ryan McGinley’s photographs of nudes in a geological cave, designers Annette and Daniela Felder created a collection composed of mineral colours with hits of dark red, plum, and gold in the asymmetry of rock formations that translate into abstract prints on skirts and [...] 2012-02-17 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-16-calvin-klein-collection-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-231.html   Finally some minimalistic aesthetics at New York Fashion Week! After mountains of frills and striking bright colors, Calvin Klein Collection came just in time to end the Fall 2012 season with a discreet, yet sophisticated look. There is a kind of Belgian Avant-garde feeling in the air, if [...] 2012-02-16 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-16-l-wren-scott-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-230.html   L’Wren Scott came to New York Fashion Week to demonstrate how the British do it best. With a RTW collection inspired by several decades of England’s history, from 1900 to pre-WWII, there was undoubtedly a lot of ground to cover. The ‘Tea Time’ story that unfolded down the [...] 2012-02-16 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-15-marchesa-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-225.html William-Adolphe Bouguereau’s dramatic nineteenth-century painting “A Soul Brought to Heaven” inspired Georgina Chapman, and her partner Keren Craig for their Fall Winter 2012 Collection. This season, Marchesa continued with their rarefied, couture-like visions. They crafted a collection [...] 2012-02-15 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-15-reed-krakoff-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-229.html With his latest Autumn/Winter 2012 RTW, Krakoff, the man who has spent over twenty years amongst fashion’s brightest, remained true to his signature minimalist style. The first wave of models sported black and cordovan brown ensembles; rich wools were mixed with leather accompanied by heavy-duty [...] 2012-02-15 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-15-jeremy-scott-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-226.html The king of kitsch comes out to play. And in good time too as things were getting very serious out there on the New York runways with all those stiff, prim coats and even stiffer knee high boots going on everywhere else. Scott takes the pop, the superficial and disposable parts of teen culture and [...] 2012-02-15 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-15-michael-kors-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-228.html Sporty and glamorous: these were two words Kors used to describe Clark Gable and Carole Lombard, the starting points for his collection for New York Fashion Week Fall Winter 2012. As models strode down the catwalk in chunky Mary Janes and cozy-looking sweaters, one could see the designer’s [...] 2012-02-15 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-14-oscar-de-la-renta-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-227.html Dazzling evening gowns and sophisticated tailored First Lady looks are building the thread of Oscar de la Renta's design signature. This Fall 2012 season has been no different and  the designer proved again that Jacky Kennedy's style is here to stay. Like always, De la Renta sets a very [...] 2012-02-14 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-14-rodarte-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-223.html The shearling dress, it was only ever a matter of time before we saw this proposed on the runway, the Rodarte option that appeared towards the end of their show is surely just the first of many. Following the prairie-licious spring summer 12 collection, stunning but perhaps in parts a little [...] 2012-02-14 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-13-marc-jacobs-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-review-221.html Diamonds are a girl's best friend? Well, Marc's at least! There was definitely some pimp attitude in the air at Marc Jacobs' Fall 2012 show in New York. Glittery tops and skirts in fuchsia and bordeaux shades, curvy leather dresses, sparkling buckles on pilgrim shoes, as well as oversize fur hats [...] 2012-02-13 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-13-thom-browne-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-220.html Known for his conceptual fashion, American designer Thom Browne hits the nail on the head again, by providing an estranging yet captivating show: models coming out of coffins, who would have conjured that?  This said, Browne's black widow is a quiet and emancipated woman. Like in previous [...] 2012-02-13 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-13-3-1-phillip-lim-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-217.html The Fall Winter 2012 collection reflected the aesthetics of Neo - Noir comics, having Frank Miller's Sin City and Alan Moore and David Lloyd's V for Vendetta as main sources of inspiration. As seen in Phillip Lim's pre-fall collection, the whimsical use of graphic animation was underlined by the [...] 2012-02-13 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-13-donna-karan-new-york-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-218.html The start of the Donna Karan Collection Fall Winter 2012 show presented comfort and volume in each silhouette. The mannequins were bundled up in plaid wool stadium blankets worn over skirts and shawls. Motorcycle jackets and full leather coats, combined with black boots or zebra print demonstrated [...] 2012-02-13 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-13-ohne-titel-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-222.html The two Parson graduates, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, gave their audience geometric prints and lots of texture in their latest Ohne Titel Fall/Winter 2012 collection. The two-toned outfits were sometimes infused with a third shade however all in all the colour palette maintained its simplicity; [...] 2012-02-13 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-12-zac-posen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-216.html   Zac Posen is riding the Eastern current: kimono fabrics, origami-inspired details in collars and waists, and Imperial overtones in a gown with large cone sleeves as well as a sweeping ball skirt clearly referenced popular Oriental motifs.   Loyalists will no doubt fall in love all [...] 2012-02-12 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-12-thakoon-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-219.html The atmosphere at the Thakoon show for his Fall Winter 2012 collection brought together a red-light district feel and the stellar glamour of Audrey Hepburn in the musical Funny Face (1957). Thakoon Panichgul used these references to explore a more conservative side, once again confirming himself as [...] 2012-02-12 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-12-victoria-beckham-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-214.html It’s good, we can all exhale. Or rewrite your copy depending on which side you’d called it. Yes, Victoria Beckham is fighting a good fight and has delivered a great second collection. Here the bionic body goes military and we find large golden buttons placed strategically over chest rocks and [...] 2012-02-12 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-11-altuzarra-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-213.html Imagine if Joseph Altuzarra’s shows had the production budget of a big French house behind them. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not like the boy’s running on gruel but this collection has such a edge that it starts one fantasising about the machinations of a big French house that would have [...] 2012-02-11 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-11-calla-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-266.html   Toronto-born fashion designer Calla Haynes worked as a print designer for up-and-coming labels before starting her own line, previous to that she worked with Olivier Theyskens (first at Rochas then at Nina Ricci). Little wonder then than her own label, 2 years young, is full of gorgeous [...] 2012-02-11 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-11-alexander-wang-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-224.html Textures, fabrics and textiles is the holy mantra in fashion today. 'Fabrics' is arguably where all the action is happening. Speak to a member of any large brand whose job it is to research and develop fabrics and the leaps in technology mean that this is kind of where the rock'n'roll is really at. [...] 2012-02-11 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-11-band-of-outsiders-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-215.html   Well, Howdy, pardner. The setting was inspired by new American frontiers and this season’s Boy and Girl collections-the brand’s two women’s lines-are givin’ the city-slickers much to talk about. There would be no milk-churning in the longsleeved dress with a gathered waist nor in an [...] 2012-02-11 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-11-lacoste-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-208.html New dawn continues to rise at Lacoste as creative director, Filipe Oliveira Baptista, presents his second mainline collection for the heritage French sportswear brand. Something of a marketing dream for Lacoste, Baptista is handsome, smart, laid back and with a young family for whom he lays down [...] 2012-02-11 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-10-helmut-lang-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-210.html Nicole and Michael Colovos put their second season collection for Helmut Lang on the runway, they have found a way to bring their DNA to the core image of the brand once again. The first look, a white leather lapel-less blazer, glossy black skinny jeans, and black thigh-high LD Tuttle wedge [...] 2012-02-10 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-10-n-hoolywood-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-211.html Japanese designer Daisuke Obana began his line N. Hoolywood in 2002. He earned his title, ‘’Mr Hollywood’’, after a buying trip to LA. His collections are inspired by themes from films, literature, art, current events and things that strike his fancy, such as scrap metal recycling and [...] 2012-02-10 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-10-yigal-azrouel-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-207.html Yigal Azrouël presented a bit of minimalism with his women's ready to wear Fall Winter 2012 collection letting everything loose holding nothing back and showing dark colors, splashed with fur, outlined in sheer materials. From one look to another, from demure with midcalf skirts to sheer [...] 2012-02-10 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-10-jason-wu-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-209.html For his latest Auntumn/Winter 2012 collection Jason Wu drew inspiration from not one but three sources: Mao, the Qing Dynasty and a 1940’s Hollywood take on China. This was clearly an opportunity for the 29 year-old Taipei born designer to discover his roots. Once opening the studded red doors [...] 2012-02-10 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-10-peter-som-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-212.html There was a blend of opposing traits in the Peter Som Fall/Winter 2012-2013 show: a glistening maroon blouse and pants, its colour deep and dramatic, lost its heaviness in the soft cut and limpid quality. Leather pants were cut to be roomy, with large pockets suited for a short stroll. There were [...] 2012-02-10 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-09-creatures-of-the-wind-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-205.html This season, the Creatures of the Wind designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters presented an eclectic collection Inspired by the Scottish clergyman Robert Kirk’s daring 1691 exposé, “The Secret Commonwealth: Of Elves, Fauns and Faires,”  in which he collected his parishioners' tales of [...] 2012-02-09 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-09-richard-chai-love-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-new-york-review-204.html Richard Chai made a strong show presenting equal amounts  of floral and striped pieces, continuing in the same style as his diffusion line. On the floral front, mainly reds, with black accents providing a strong background. More daring pieces include blazers and wide-leg pants, while more [...] 2012-02-09 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-03-soulland-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-202.html With his “Imperial” collection, Silas Adler designer of “Soulland” sets a tone that seems to be Copenhagen's next trend, if you look at the past Autumn-Winter 2012/13 shows: Russian culture and society are again the main inspiration (e.g. Asger Juel Larsen) and is depicted through hand made [...] 2012-02-03 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-02-asger-juel-larsen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-203.html London-based and Danish-born young designer Asger Juel Larsen made the runway a conceptual “no-mans-land” for one of Copenhagen Fashion Week's most unconventional shows. The National Museum of Denmark serves as a historical setting for Larsen's Soviet inspired autumn-winter 2012/13 [...] 2012-02-02 23:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-02-stine-goya-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-199.html Stine Goya is well known for setting a mood through vibrant colors, house designed prints and softly sculptural shaped pieces. This Autumn-Winter 2012/13 season was no different. Models would enter the runway through a golden apple, wearing snake-shaped neckpieces – the reference to the [...] 2012-02-02 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-02-baum-und-pferdgarten-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-197.html Helle Hesthave and Rikke Baumgarten form a preppy duo on the Copenhagen's runway. The starting point of Baum und Pferdgarten's autumn-winter 2012/12 collection is the subculture Mod of the late 50s and the early 60s. Throughout the collection the designers are playing with preppy schoolgirl [...] 2012-02-02 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-02-tabernacle-twins-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-200.html The fourth collection of Vibe Lundemark a.k.a “Tabernacle Twins” impresses through strong colors, digital prints, bold shapes and highly overloaded graphic fabrics. The former graduate of London's Royal College of Art is all about quirky and unconventional knitwear. Working with [...] 2012-02-02 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-02-anne-sofie-madsen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-198.html The Danish born and raised Anne Sofie Madsen, a former junior designer for the legendary Alexander McQueen; it is not a coincidence that her Autumn-Winter 2012/13 collection is pretty much all about a dreamy and sculptural silhouette. Madsen debuted with her eponym brand in 2010 during London [...] 2012-02-02 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-henrik-vibskov-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-201.html His shows usually close Copenhagen Fashion Week with a breathtaking final – this time, everybody's darling Henrik Vibskov decided to set the tone straight from the beginning of the Autumn-Winter 2012 season and therefoer completely took the wind out of the sails of his competitors. As usually, [...] 2012-02-01 22:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-wackerhaus-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-189.html A brisk wind blows through Wackerhaus' Autumn-Winter 2012/13 runway. No need to say that the show name “Glacierville” would set an icy tone! Inspired by preppy vintage garments, the collection provides a sporty yet refined attitude. Wackerhaus' nonchalant take on daily ready-to-wear [...] 2012-02-01 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-rutzou-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-192.html “It is my tribute to one of the rare birds of the fashion world, the genuine New Yorker, Iris Apfel, and the generation of intellectual style icons who are gradually gone. For me Iris Apfel is an icon who has for a generation perfected a both eccentric ans simple look – with the addition of her [...] 2012-02-01 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-karen-by-simonsen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-195.html Watch the Karen by Simonsen Fashion Show Video - Ready To Wear - Fall Winter 2012 Photos and Video Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2012-02-01 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-david-andersen-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-193.html Watch the David Andersen Fashion show - Ready To Wear - Fall Winter 2012 Photos and Video Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2012-02-01 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-yde-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-190.html This season, Georg Jensen hosts Copenhagen Fashion Week's Danish designer Ole Yde for his eponymous line YDE at the George Hensen Jewellery Headquarters, where the renowned silver smith forms the backdrop of the show. For his autumn/winter 2012/12 collection the young designer opts for his [...] 2012-02-01 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-spon-diogo-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-191.html This year's winner of the Max Factor New Talent Award prove to be worth watching! Spon Diogo – the emerging new scandinavian brand on the runway – is here to stay. Founded by Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues, Spon Diogo sets an architectural yet casual tone for its [...] 2012-02-01 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-j-lindeberg-menswear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-188.html From the streets of Milan to vast journeys in remote and adventurous places. J.Lindeberg continues to focus on the core elements that have come to define the Main Collection; a Scandinavian heritage, functional technology and progressive tailoring – precisely defined with true [...] 2012-02-01 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-kopenhagen-fur-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-196.html Watch the Kopenhagen Fur Fashion Show Video- Ready To Wear - Fall Winter 2012 in Copenhagen. Photos and Video Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2012-02-01 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-minimarket-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-187.html Entertained by different thoughts of magic and illusion minimarket created this physical collection, also inspired by the ”vaudeville phenomena” and specific perpetrators of magic such as harry houdini. Disaggregated and cropped pieces are transformed into different versions of already [...] 2012-02-01 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-02-01-rodebjer-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-186.html Rodebjer is an international fashion brand offering sensual, elegant and essential clothing for all occasions. Our design philosophy is based on wardrobe essentials in combination with items that catches the absolute zeitgeist. We respect the history and are sensitive to the future translating it [...] 2012-02-01 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-dagmar-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-185.html In their autumn collection The Swedish Woman, Dagmar features two radiant women: Lisbeth Salander and Sigrid Hjertén. The latter, a renowned early 20th century Swedish colourist, meets the present-day literary icon who has renewed the image of the Swedish woman.   Photos: Kristian [...] 2012-01-31 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-ecco-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-copenhagen-review-194.html Watch the ECCO Fashion show Video - Ready To Wear - Fall Winter 2012 Photos and Video Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2012-01-31 19:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-maria-nordstrom-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-184.html Maria Nordström Autumn-Winter 2012 is a collection that blends couture with exclusive everyday wear. Recurring materials are hand-dyed silk, leather, silk jersey, feathers and wool. Other materials used in the collection are chiffon, refined sequince, sea shell and cashmere. The collection [...] 2012-01-31 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-johanna-pihl-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-183.html The Collection Johanna Pihl AW12 was born from the relationship between Rococo and our modern time focusing research on architecture and interior design with lines and patterns characteristic from these periods. The garments are formed to create a sleek, elegant and confident expression, [...] 2012-01-31 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-busnel-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-182.html A sophisticated, timeless and elegant beauty with immaculate makeup, wearing only her jewels looks into her wardrobe. This season, Busnel stands out from the crowd by bringing together feminine and masculine, tight and volume, thin with thick and dull with shiny. The classical men's wardrobe has [...] 2012-01-31 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-cheap-monday-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-181.html For A/W12 we are slowing down, focusing on the long cycles and evolution in nature. We have chosen a naturalistic approach, looking at the periodic table, natural history, DNA and fossils. This outlook has shaped the denim washes and effects as well as serving as inspiration for prints and [...] 2012-01-31 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-lexington-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-180.html While variations of jeans-wear rule the collection, there are dressier items, including a evening dress and a velvet blazer, which could easily translate into office-appropriate looks. The colors are reds, blues, greens in combo with sand, denim, winter white and toffee. The collection is [...] 2012-01-31 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-mayla-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-177.html The collection is made out of timeless, feminine pieces, designed to become all-time wardrobe favourites. Think Greta Garbo, dark and moody, in long silhouetted cashmere coats and cardigans, reefer jackets and berets. Then think lazy autumn days, dressed in lace and silk, enjoying afternoon tea [...] 2012-01-31 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-the-local-firm-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-179.html Founded in 2007, The Local Firm is a Sweden-based fashion jeans brand with a distinctive design code that combines high fashion with innovative jeans design. The Local Firm´s concept is inspired by the European Industrial age. The design concept “A contrast of status” is a cross-wardrobe based [...] 2012-01-31 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-beckmans-college-of-design-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-178.html The second-year fashion students mark the middle of their studies with a fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Twelve students present individual collections of three to five outfits; the outcome of a project in which they have experimented with process, materials and multiple textile [...] 2012-01-31 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-31-boomerang-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-175.html BOOMERANG FALL WINTER 2012 - OUR PASSION This season we want to formulate who we are, what we are enthusiastic about, what choices we make to reach new heights – Our passion. To share- It’s our curiosity and eagerness to learn new things that drives us. It’s our never ending need for [...] 2012-01-31 09:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-oscar-jacobson-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-174.html Inspiration F/W 12 Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde Robert Louis Stevenson's classic novel of 1886, with a split personality between good and evil in the center of the action, was based on William Brodies (1741-1788) life. Mr. Brodie was during the day a highly respected Scottish cabinet maker, but at [...] 2012-01-30 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-filippa-k-dam-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-173.html Exploring the minimalistic expression in it´s purest form, Autumn Winter 2012 is a clean and precise look without unneccassary detailing. As a strong contrast to this a playful clash of strong colours and patterns.The look is strong yet feminine, sensual and fitted; open backs are contrasted with [...] 2012-01-30 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-carin-wester-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-172.html The Carin Wester Label was created in 2003 and quickly became noticed by high profiled stores because of its androgynous shapes and urban, playful expressions. Today, the collection consists of a female line ("Carin Wester") a male line ("Wester") and the limited line ("W"). The collections are [...] 2012-01-30 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-ubi-sunt-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-171.html The vision behind the Ubi Sunt concept and it’s collections is to celebrate and express gratitude for what once was – the development of humanity and the achievement of those before us. Therefore we are proud that a selection of each collection always includes exquisite jerseys that use a [...] 2012-01-30 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-v-ave-shoe-repair-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-170.html V Ave Shoe Repair represents a unique design, not only in the scandinavian feeld, but also in a global aspect. v ave s.r. is created with high quality rate and a strong conceptual vision. the silhouette of vasr consists of a mix of rtw, denim and unique pieces, handmade in our atelier under [...] 2012-01-30 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-whyred-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-169.html Theme and inspiration for Whyred Autumn/Winter 2012 Forrest The depth of a mystic and ruff, yet colourful forest, with all its shapes and colours, in contrast to the extreme modern implements of man-made architecture. A painting of Caspar David Friedrich, or a silvercube building placed in [...] 2012-01-30 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-stylein-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-168.html The vintage circus’ beautiful world has inspired Stylein’s FW12 collection, where the circus director’s tailored straight lines meet the princess’ sensuality. She borrows his jacket and the collar of his shirt and the characters play without a safety net. The materials in the collection [...] 2012-01-30 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-30-filippa-k-man-menswear-fall-winter-2012-stockholm-review-167.html Inspired by a modern way of dressing Autumn Winter 2012 explores the consistent style of Filippa K Man. An ultra-minimal look that embraces the functionality of the sports world and applies it to the wardrobe of the well-dressed urbanite. The raw, contemporary look, filled with hidden utilitarian [...] 2012-01-30 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-zahia-couture-ss12-paris-review-165.html Zahia Dehar, the infamous escort girl who cost the French football team their reputation and savings, made her lingerie-couture debut on the last day of Paris Couture Week – bringing an ironic close to the deluxe shows. Zahia, 19 year-old, until then best known for her figure (generally shown [...] 2012-01-25 19:15:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-eva-minge-couture-ss12-paris-review-158.html   Designer Eva Minge upholds the title of one of Poland’s most globally-known designers. She is also the only one to possess the versatility of combining industrial and interior design to her portfolio. Minge began showing her ready-to-wear collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New [...] 2012-01-25 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-jean-paul-gaultier-couture-ss2012-review-157.html An emotional fashion show for the closure of the Haute Couture SS/2012. L'enfant terrible and charismatic Jean Paul Gaultier has presented his collection amid shouts and applause, tears and whispers of the songs of the controversial Amy, paying tribute to the missing queen of [...] 2012-01-25 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-elie-saab-couture-ss12-paris-review-159.html   The Spring Summer 2012 ready-to-wear could have given us a hint of some of the haute couture collections's standout pieces: shorter skirts and more lace. The skirts, several inches above the knee, looked, in white and yellow lace like the consummate bellflowers. Below a silver beaded [...] 2012-01-25 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-maison-martin-margiela-an-artisanal-collection-for-women--review-156.html Martin Margiela has collected used - and sometimes new - clothes, accessories and objects from around the world in order to create this particular collection:   - Embroidered cloth dating from the 19th century. - Cotton silk sourced from an old factory in Portsmouth, [...] 2012-01-25 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-sakina-m-sa-couture-ss-2012-review-160.html Since moving to Paris from Marseille, Sakina M’sa has made a name for herself in socially-involved fashion projects. One of these is the training of marginalized groups for jobs in fashion, which landed her a scholarship from the PPR Foundation. Another is burying fabric to age it a natural and [...] 2012-01-25 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-25-on-aura-tout-vu-couture-ss12-paris-review-166.html For Spring/Summer 2012, On Aura Tout Vu bought us The Fire Woman. She was powerful and determined as she made her way down the catwalk only to bewitch her audience and make heads turn. Her first appearance was in a one-piece leotard, holding a baton and sporting black leather ankle boots with [...] 2012-01-25 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-alexandre-vauthier-couture-spring-summer-2012-review-151.html Watch the video of the Alexandre Vauthier Couture Spring Summer 2012 in Paris:     Alexandre Vauthier’s Glamazon women are on hiatus. The designer, who has worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler, has created, in his young career under his own name, a majority of designs [...] 2012-01-24 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-basil-soda-couture-ss12-paris-review-155.html The lebanese fashion designer Basil Soda has presented his new couture collection for Spring Summer 2012 with a more romantic view of embellishments. The dominant motif was the examination of the material under a microscope. Tiny grey crystals, gilded twigs and pearls to decorating the tops of [...] 2012-01-24 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-givenchy-couture-ss12-paris-review-176.html   In a décor of nose rings and basketballs, Givenchy unveiled a collection as painstakingly put together as always, only a tad darker this time. This season, Riccardo Tisci found inspiration in the 1920, notably jewelry and illustrations. He designed flowy, racer bag dresses entirely [...] 2012-01-24 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-yanina-couture-spring-summer-2012-review-153.html Yulia Yanina wants to dress her couture clients the way Dior dressed his women: with the feeling of luxury. The native Russian launched her label in Moscow over a decade ago to a clientele seeking a know-how in embroidery and fabric. Yanina used Swarovski crystals on flesh-coloured tulle bodices [...] 2012-01-24 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-stephane-rolland-couture-ss12-paris-review-150.html Watch the video of the Stephane Rolland Couture Spring Summer 2012 in Paris: In the Cite de l'architecture et du Patrimoine at Tracadero Place, where the most iconic works of the French architectural heritage and the contemporary  world  live, Stephane Rolland presented his spring [...] 2012-01-24 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-atelier-gustavolins-couture-ss12-paris-review-152.html   Gustavo Lins, who graduated as architect in his native Brazil and later studied in Barcelona, is known for the rigor of the sharp and almost architectural shapes of his garments, where no detail is apparent and where the materials comprised of fine silks, taffetas, Kashmir, fall like [...] 2012-01-24 15:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-24-didit-couture-ss12--review-149.html Watch the video of Didit Couture Spring Summer 2012 show in Paris. 2012-01-24 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-iris-van-herpen-ss-2012-couture-paris-review-143.html   "For me fashion is an expression of art that is very closely related to myself and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, mood and cultural setting." (Iris van Herpen). Throughout all of her work Iris tries to make clear that fashion is an artistic [...] 2012-01-23 20:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-eric-tibusch-couture-ss12-paris-review-145.html Eric Tibusch has a penchant for movie-inspired collections. His Spring/Summer 2009 collection was entitled "Bonnie and Clyde". The following year gave us "Orbital", inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s visionary outlook. In 2007, Tibusch presented a collection entitled, "Murder Along the Champs", the [...] 2012-01-23 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-georges-hobeika-couture-ss12-paris-review-144.html For Spring Summer 2012, Hobeika’s use of fabric includes a skirt of seemingly shredded and torn pieces of fabric, like large dangling petals, and floral appliqués embroidered on the upper torso, travelling down the hem of a skirt. Its aim when applied on sheer layered silk was prettiness, which [...] 2012-01-23 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-maurizio-galante-couture-ss12-paris-review-146.html   Maurizio Galante's own vision of couture is not based on a Total Look. He has focused his design from above the waist projecting imaginary flower bouquet. The couturier's perception of garments as objects is seen through the vegetal universe he has created in this collection. Generous, [...] 2012-01-23 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-alexis-mabille-couture-ss12-paris-review-164.html Paris was graced with Alexis Mabille’s Spring Summer 2012 Collection ‘Colour Therapy’. A extravagant array of every color, each as electrifying as the one before; fuchsia, ruby red, orange, violet, mallard blue, emerald… Every colour was there to demand attention, not forgetting the [...] 2012-01-23 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-bouchra-jarrar-couture-ss12-paris-review-162.html   Beauty and talent was what walked down the runway for Bouchra Jarrar’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Each of the twenty-three ensembles displayed thought and class when it came to design, proving that the catwalk nudity is not the only way to intrigue the crowd. First down the runway [...] 2012-01-23 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-christophe-josse-couture-ss12-paris-review-147.html   A total of twenty silhouettes that included eight cocktail dresses eleven evening gown and la mariée came down the runway at Christophe Josse.  Each piece from this new collection reflects architectural inspirations from both I.M Pei’s Museum of Islamic Art in Doha [...] 2012-01-23 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-23-versace-couture-ss12-paris-review-163.html   Eight years on from her last Couture appearance, Donatella Versace stunned the crowds with a Spring Summer 2012 collection of pure Hollywood glamour. At the prestigious l’Ecole des Beaux-Arts, just over a dozen models walked down the runway in classic Versace get-up: metallic golds, [...] 2012-01-23 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-22-arnys-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-142.html   Jean Grimbert and his brother Michel are the proprietors of Arnys, the high-end clothing boutique in Paris started by their grandfather Jankel Grimbert, in 1933. The name Arnys is synonymous with elegance and refined menswear in Paris, it's something of a Parisian [...] 2012-01-22 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-22-thom-browne-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-161.html The rocky horror picture show, blade runner or Frankenstein are the the most notables inspirations for this collection. Thom Browne presented a hybrid man half punk half horror film villain. Thom decided to take us back to school, issuing a lesson in how to do menswear, the avant-garde way. In [...] 2012-01-22 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-22-exclusive-alexandre-vauthier-preview-review-138.html Designer Alexandre Vauthier invited NowFashion at his parisian atelier to check out en avant première his SS12 Couture collection. More photos of the event will be published during the show... we didn't want to spoil the surprise! Rendez-vous 24th Januray @ 7pm, Paris [...] 2012-01-22 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-22-songzio-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-148.html   Sophisticated and clean but full of details is probably the easiest way to describe Songzio's collection. He has created an elegant man, mingling modern urban silhouettes with the regalia of imperial Asia. Long and large volumes, accentuated shapes and proportions, the show [...] 2012-01-22 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-21-raf-simons-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-135.html Watch the video of the show. 2012-01-21 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-21-hermes-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-136.html Hermès is all about clean lines, a firm cut and zen outlook. Veronique Nichanian, the head designer of menswear is a very underrated talent but then her style is to make clothes that are understated which she does so perfectly that she skates just under the radar which probably pleases the Hermès [...] 2012-01-21 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-20-boris-bidjan-saberi-review-140.html   The half-German half-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi presented his urban, yet sophisticated signature look, by adding an experimental touch to the upcoming winter wardrobe. People who have been following Saberi's work from the beginning know that his shows always come with a creative [...] 2012-01-20 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-20-juun-j-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-137.html   The Korean designer was usual playful self, offering his trademark balance between classical menswear citations and comic strip like appropriations. The collection kicked off with vintage soldier reference, seemingly a mix between World War I and 19th century rifleman—: heavy khaki coats [...] 2012-01-20 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-20-julius-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-134.html It’s great to see Julius develop his collection from year to year. He’s really refining himself and that's evident in this collection. It’s a much cleaner Julius style, a lot less distressed and damaged. We're glad he was able to retain the aggressive feeling in many of his garments, but [...] 2012-01-20 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-19-henrik-vibskov-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-130.html Interview: Henrik Vibskov’s show took place in what seemed to be the inside of a giant drum kit. A mix of loose riding pants, 1920s cloche-hat inspired headpieces with ears cut out, and socks worn on shoes confirmed the kooky Henrik we all know. But cable sweaters in speckled wool and dark frock [...] 2012-01-19 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-19-adam-kimmel-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-139.html For the upcoming winter, Adam Kimmel encourages a very masculine design, rather than to follow the omnipresent androgynous look that has took over the runway for the past two seasons, weather in men or womenswear. This said, Kimmel never deviated from his classical path and proved once again that [...] 2012-01-19 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-19-yohji-yamamoto-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-132.html The achingly beautiful notes of Massive Attack’s Teardrop, as covered by folk singer Jose Gonzalez, played as Yohji Yamamoto’s fashion collection was presented inside the Yamamoto headquarters in Paris tonight. Yamamoto’s voyage of elegant masculinity continued with a visual theme of [...] 2012-01-19 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-19-louis-vuitton-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-131.html Held all the way down in the fifteenth arrondisement of Paris, inside the glamourous glass greenhouse of Parc Andre Citroen, the second collection by British designer Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton menswear drew large cheers and unanimous praise from the audience as he took his final bow. Crowds [...] 2012-01-19 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-19-rick-owens-mens-fw12-13-paris-review-133.html   As legions of mini Rick Owens sneak up on the runways every season, the ‘Prince of Darkness’ has to reinvent himself ad eternam to remain unique. Last season, he thought up a gender studies goldmine with somber male robes (dresses and skirts in my opinion); this season he shocked [...] 2012-01-19 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-18-ami-alexandre-mattiussi-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-127.html Interview: During a recent conversation I asked French-American designer and current CFDA lauréat Joseph Altuzarra what he had in his own wardrobe and he answered that he really only wore one brand that was made by his friend Alexandre Mattiussi and called AMI. Seeing an AMI Alexandre Mattiussi [...] 2012-01-18 21:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-18-christian-lacroix-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-141.html When you think about Lacroix you think Baroque but it was not just that aspect that Sacha Walckhoff wanted to represent in the men's collection today, he chose to introduce a kaleidoscope in which different topics were discussed.  Walckhoff, with almost 20 years of experience with [...] 2012-01-18 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-18-mugler-fw12-13-mens-paris-review-128.html Interview: Watching French fashion designer Romain Kremer and his friend and creative director Nicola Formichetti on their journey through the revival of Mugler Mens is so much fun. It's like watching two kids with a chemistry set. By experimentation, a few explosions here and implosions there [...] 2012-01-18 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-exclusive-lacroix-preview-review-122.html This season, Lacroix invited Nowfashion into their usually impenetrable workshop, for us to have a sneaky peak before tomorrow’s runway show. It was Sacha Walckhoff’s third collection – the head designer assisted Christian for two decades and when the house hit financial dismay, he decided [...] 2012-01-17 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-roccobarocco-mens-fw12-13--review-121.html The show kicked off with a silhouette seemingly plucked out of an Italian university in the 1960S: a soft, earth toned palette, with straight – but comfortably so— leg corduroy trousers, a button-up shirt and a soft felt hat. It soon matured into tapered black suits, for more of a neo Hedi [...] 2012-01-17 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-enrico-coveri-fw12-13-mens-milan-review-125.html For the first half of Coveri’s Auntum/Winter 2012 show ensembles were awash in fuchsia, black and grey. A powerful contrast that appeared on statement silk ties around the necks of beautiful male models. Chunky knits, zipped jackets, duffle coats and tone-on-tone tartan suits also marched [...] 2012-01-17 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-ports-1961-fw12-13-mens-milan-review-126.html Models sported heavy rimmed spectacles on the Ports 1961 runway, marking the launch of the brands own line. It seemed two shapes were being proposed, the main being a rounded square frame that gave an architect meets nerd effect. Contrasting, however, the clothing collection was anything but nerdy [...] 2012-01-17 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-diesel-black-gold-fw12-13-milan-review-123.html Diesel Black Gold is the rock'n'roll imprint of Diesel's wider empire that was founded in 1978 by one of the biggest entrepreneurs in international fashion, Italian Renzo Rosso.  Suits and biker jackets is the flippant way to sum up the collection but a more considered reaction would be [...] 2012-01-17 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-17-giorgio-armani-fw12-13-mens-milan-review-124.html So much to discuss, what to talk about first? The trousers in the opening looks were baggy and tucked into high-top, leather laced boots (a key trend from Milan this season) while three pleats fell from each side of the waist giving an aviator silhouette that feels quite edgy; I didn't expect to be [...] 2012-01-17 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-versace-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-120.html Ladies and gentlemen, the Versace army. At some point last year Donatella was clearly planning a government coup just incase things with Berlusconi or his successor didn't work out. Her planned divisions comprised of camp paratroopers, biker-boys, generals in pyjamas, spies, snow-troopers and [...] 2012-01-16 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-gazzarini-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-119.html One thing is safe to say – Gazzarini made some bold moves. Experimental lengths, widths and shades took the more conservative members of the audience aback – yet managed to offer a mix of wearable and statement pieces. The show kicked off with subtle touches of eccentricity: a seemingly quiet [...] 2012-01-16 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-umit-benan-fw12-13-milan-review-129.html A soldier's uniform is the genesis of the suit that we recognize today as the staple of a man's wardrobe. The suit/uniform has been the leitmotiv of this fall winter menswear season and in the case of Umit Benan, a ​​subtle and fervent sensibility made an appearance as well. Maintaining [...] 2012-01-16 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-canali-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-118.html Canali kicked off with a Talented Mr. Ripley type chic: impeccable side-parting, gold-framed glasses, 1950s pinstripe suits, cashmere scarf in mustard or deep red. This energy continued with double-breasted coats, silk handkerchief poking out of top pockets. Taupe velvet frock coats paired [...] 2012-01-16 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-z-zegna-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-117.html Zegna’s show kicked off with a house classic: a three button suit jacket, pleated tapered trousers, brown leather loafers. Chic, a tad retro but very wearable. There were a few more solid suits to follow – the brand’s trademark, let's not forget — but these didn’t dominate the [...] 2012-01-16 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-gucci-mens-fw12-12-milan-review-116.html Menswear FW12/13, where Gucci's creative director Frida Giannini essentially claims an entire colour for her men. If this week Jil Sander chose black, Prada red, Emporio Armani navy blue then Gucci took dark bottle-green. It was the colour of the carpet, the colour of the entire opening section of [...] 2012-01-16 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-iceberg-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-112.html Iceberg tipped its hat to the Artful Dodger today. Transported from the gutters of Victorian London to a more sophisticated fashion world, Charles Dickens character was swathed in soft knits and cotton flannels. First steps on the runway opened with a pepper, maxi knit matched with braces and [...] 2012-01-16 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-16-dirk-bikkembergs-sport-couture-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-111.html Dirk Bikkembergs, one of the original 'Antwerp six' graduate designers (alongside Anne Demeulemeester, Walter Van Bierendonck and Dries Van Noten) has since created a brand known for its ability to mix high fashion with the universe of football. Today however he flooded the catwalk with a series of [...] 2012-01-16 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-calvin-klein-collection-mens-fw-12-13-milan-review-109.html A demonstration in casual excellence, the Calvin Klein Collection was sporty and laddy and presented that genre of stylish masculinity that’s understood so well by icons like Liam Gallagher, David Beckham or Thierry Henry. All collars were sky-high, duffle coats were a statement (via the baggy [...] 2012-01-15 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-moncler-gamme-bleu-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-107.html The puffa jacket and its many modern permutations is appearing everywhere on the Milan runways this season, its a classic that's crying out for a strong redesign and Moncler is one of the brands to take on the challenge. Today’s Gamme Bleu show is likely to inject plenty more quilt into urban [...] 2012-01-15 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-prada-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-113.html Miuccia's neo dandyism of the 30’s, inspired by the nineteenth-century man, Wilde, Brummell or Holmes? Adrien Brody, Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Emilie Hirsch, Alexandre Carril, Victor Carril, Garret Hedlund, Jamie Bell and [...] 2012-01-15 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-trussardi-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-108.html After presenting an Annie Hall inspired collection for his first womenswear collection, Trussardi’s new star designer Umit Benan stuck to flawless 70s chic for the menswear too, inspired by racing car driver and style icon Jackie Stewart. Flares, mustaches and sheepskin jackets opened the show, [...] 2012-01-15 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-vivienne-westwood-man-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-110.html Queen Viv and husband Andreas Kronthaler, who heads the men’s division of Westwood, delivered a collection of forty incredibly accessible looks this season. Gents, if you’ve always wanted to wear Westwood but found it difficult to find your way to the brand then this is the year for you. The [...] 2012-01-15 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-pringle-of-scotland-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-105.html Pringle, the label that gave birth to the Scottish knitwear industry, came to Milan to prove one thing: despite its archaic past (1815) it is still more than capable of reinventing itself. For Autumn/Winter 2012 the audience was faced with wave upon wave of bold colors; beiges, yellows, reds, [...] 2012-01-15 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-salvatore-ferragamo-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-104.html The Italian fashion institution that is Salvatore Ferragamo was on top form yet again. For next winter the house, under the gaze of the exceptionally talented Massimiliano Giornetti, has prepared a collection that goes beyond its usual class. Unbelievably slick is what came to mind as the models [...] 2012-01-15 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-ermanno-scervino-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-103.html After ten years of soaking up the fashion world like a sponge, since the launch of his own label back in 1999 Ermanno Scervino has continuously impressed his contemporaries with his innovate and free-spirited creations. Menswear Autumn/Winter 2012 was no exception. Opening the catwalk came a [...] 2012-01-15 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-15-emporio-armani-fw12-13-milan-review-106.html Why run when you can walk? Why walk when you can glide… The Emporio Armani man was in no rush this morning. If time is money then this guy exudes this equation demonstrated by the measured pace at which the models walked, allowing all eyes to take in an abundance of sporty detailing on a spectrum [...] 2012-01-15 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-neil-barrett-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-102.html This season, Neil Barrett merged sportswear and tailoring, bringing sleekness to one and elasticity to the other. The show kicked off with a duffle coat inspired jacket and a notable, oversized lambskin lining. This was followed by a quilted sports jacket worn with a finely knit turtle neck and [...] 2012-01-14 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-burberry-prorsum-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-101.html Almost goes without saying (but it warrants a repeat) Christopher Bailey is on fire right now. If last seasons African embroidery and artisanship was too cray-cray for some then this collection was a more civilized version of that; the ideas explored last season were continued in a more commercial [...] 2012-01-14 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-frankie-morello-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-100.html Never boring, Frankie Morello, a design partnership between Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti that began in 1999, is the wildcard in the Italian pack when it comes to Milan mens fashion week. True to form, the first looks out of the gate were suits encrusted with spikes while a two-man [...] 2012-01-14 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-jil-sander-mens-fw12-13-milan-review-99.html Even before the Jil Sander show began, held at the headquarters in Milan, a sense of artistic vision was conjured by the floor-to-ceiling black room broken only by one solitary white door that was covered in graffiti. The sound of a clock ticked and the first model burst dramatically through the [...] 2012-01-14 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-dolce-gabbana-mens-fw2012-milan-review-97.html A long black cape opened today’s Dolce&Gabbana show; worn with a three-piece suit, it suggested dark yet playful Dracula elegance for next winter. A recurring appearance of velvet lapels and waistcoats worn with white shirt and black ties brought a gothic nudge à la Brad Pitt in [...] 2012-01-14 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-costume-national-mens-aw12-milan--review-98.html ‘Bohemians and dreamers’ read the press release but what came down the runway were looks suited to professional circumstances and textures that were more about precise suiting and the future - the very latest in textile technology was demonstrated by Costume National today. Knitwear and leather [...] 2012-01-14 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2012-01-14-corneliani-mens-fw2012-milan-review-96.html Come Autumn/Winter 2012 today’s man will need to be taken much more seriously. He has an economic crisis to deal with and hence will need a wardrobe to match. This time around Corneliani sent its models down the runway in three waves of colour; gray, navy and black. With the use of this classic [...] 2012-01-14 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-12-12-acne-paris-studio-opening-celebration-review-95.html Tonight saw the much-anticipated opening of Acne’s second studio - not store.  Why the technical term of phrase? Because, true to the founder’s wishes, amongst the industrial walls of this former garage is the atmosphere of a creative working space, not a shop.  Let’s just [...] 2011-12-12 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-12-01-burberry-store-opening-celebration-review-94.html Celebrate the opening of the new Burberry store The British Ambassador to France, Sir Peter Westmacott along with Burberry Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey and British supermodel Rosie Huntington-Whiteley are hosting an event to celebrate the opening of Burberry’s newest store at the [...] 2011-12-01 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-11-16-versace-for-h-m-review-93.html PARIS – Outside, hysteria is at its utmost. Inside, Emmanuelle Alt is placidly having a drink and a wander, while Ellen Von Unwerth is bouncing about in excitement. You’ve guessed it, it’s Paris’ Versace for H&M launch night. As expected, it’s synonymous for overdressed bloggers, [...] 2011-11-16 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-10-05-louis-vuitton-womens-ss2012-paris-review-92.html   Forget Louis Vuitton’s bondage-French maid number last season. As Marc Jacobs is rumored to be packing his bags for Christian Dior, his new collection seemed to wave goodbye to the vamp he had painstakingly constructed as the polar opposite to his own line. This show bore some [...] 2011-10-05 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-10-04-chanel-womens-ss2012-paris-review-91.html   Underwater life might be a theme de rigueur this season, but Karl Lagerfeld captured its graceful opalescence with adroitness.    In a Little Mermaid-esque décor, models marched down in an iridescent palette and skin-thin textures, all to the sound of Florence Welch [...] 2011-10-04 10:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-27-anthony-vaccarello-womens-ss12-paris-review-90.html And on the eighth day God created Karlie Kloss. Today the St.Louis model walked in a show so good it should have happened twice. The twenty-eight looks by new Paris based designer Anthony Vaccarello were visually riveting and thought provoking. How are the skin baring panels held together? Taut [...] 2011-09-27 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-27-chicca-lualdi-beequeen-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2012-milan-review-316.html The minimal and linear style warmed by the use of color, maintaining a contemporary and sophisticated approach. Geometries pursue pure and clean lines, as in the art of Mondrian, draws straight and perpendicular alternated , evolve now in micro-geometric prints, now in macro prints with isolated [...] 2011-09-27 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-26-roberto-cavalli-womens-ss12-milan-review-88.html Recently the collections of Roberto Cavalli have taken on a new interpretation of the brand's own sex appeal, but it’s like the gaudy gypsy of old is being pruned or pulled into line by a new gothic direction. Today bright hippy floral patterns on flowing materials were juxtaposed with [...] 2011-09-26 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-25-salvatore-ferragamo-womens-ss12-milan-review-89.html Fabulous darling. Sultry, steamy jungle prints lit up the Salvatore Ferragamo catwalk in a glamorous collection by creative designer Massimiliano Giornetti today. This charming Florentine began his career as an assistant to the men’s knitwear designer, rose to creative director of the men’s [...] 2011-09-25 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-24-jil-sander-womens-ss12-milan-review-87.html Raf Simons is just on another level. After todays show and if you like what he does at Jil Sander – the glacial Hitchcock heroine, the hypnotising obsession with clean lines, the seductive references to art – you’d have been thrilled by the purity of his vision with this collection, I [...] 2011-09-24 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-22-prada-womens-ss12-milan-review-86.html The mood board in the Prada design studio for the SS12 collection must have been a culture vulture’s delight. Where Céline’s AW11 collection took inspiration from cars, team Prada chose the same yet with their own twist today. Pastel shades from 1950s American diners took the lead on the [...] 2011-09-22 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-21-alberta-ferretti-womens-ss12-milan-review-84.html Peekaboo. Alberta Ferretti’s main collection exposed lines across the entire female body with sleek panels of chiffon giving texture to both the wearer and gazing eyes. That was the opening section of the show at least which moved briskly onto a section of jungle fauna print dresses then zipped [...] 2011-09-21 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-21-gucci-womens-ss12-milan-review-83.html Frida Giannini’s sartorial vision for the modern woman continues with clean lines reminiscent of 70s Yves Saint Laurent, embellishments inspired by art déco architecture and a baseline palette of black largely contrasted with shimmering gold and white. Bearing in mind the deep, rich tones of the [...] 2011-09-21 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-19-burberry-prorsum-womens-ss12-london-review-85.html The SS12 menswear collection by Burberry Prorsum caused fierce debate amongst fashion lovers. The raffia, the pom-pom hats, the beaded collars, in short, the inspirational muse of African craftsmanship was disorientating for many. Hurrah then for Christopher Bailey and his team who took the [...] 2011-09-19 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-18-paul-smith-womens-ss12-london-review-81.html Damn girl, you’re sexy. Today’s Paul Smith female is the woman that a lot of straight men dream about and from the clothes, it’s clear that Smith adores his muse too which isn’t always a prerequisite for a designer. It’s easy to imagine Clémence Poésy, Cécile [...] 2011-09-18 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-17-jaegar-womens-ss12-london-review-80.html Nothing evokes summer like thick cotton and broderie Anglaise. Designer Stuart Stockdale delivered a surprise opening gambit for London Fashion Week with a genteel, feminine, eye-catching show that was given an upright feel with the addition of light tailoring matched with wide, flat rimmed Spanish [...] 2011-09-17 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-15-calvin-klein-collection-womans-ss12-new-york-review-79.html This is one of those occasions where I wish I were friends with Azzedine Alaia, a couturier of course but also somebody who’s passionate about the history of fashion and how it’s developed from a structural point of view and could give an informed commentary on the finer details in the build of [...] 2011-09-15 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-14-philosophy-womens-ss12-new-york-review-78.html Always romantic with an undeniably Italian touch (some of the stronger dresses in this collection just oozed the sultry Italian movie heroines of the 1930’s) Alberta Ferretti presented a collection that could be received as the odd one out during this New York fashion week. Where everyone else [...] 2011-09-14 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-14-jeremy-scott-womens-ss12-new-york-review-77.html What’s up hillbilly?! It was as if Jeremy Scott had imagined Elly May Clampett firing cap guns throughout Warhol’s factory this season for a collection that began with sun-bleached denim and moved onto cheeky chaps and lewd cactus prints. His camp and colourful humour ran all over the runway, [...] 2011-09-14 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-14-michael-kors-womens-ss12-new-york-review-76.html Last season Michael Kors celebrated thirty years in fashion with a very polished, non fussy demonstration of haut gamme American chic replete with luxurious materials. This season Kors whisked us off to Africa via colours of scorched earth: sienna, paprika, saffron alongside camo green, animal [...] 2011-09-14 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-12-thom-browne-womens-ss12-new-york-review-75.html The king of kook, Thom Browne. Just as his clothes play with flaunting the norms, the women that this NY based designer evokes in his collections are worshipped for the same: the sexually ambiguous Marlene Deitrich chuffing a smoke, Zelda Fitzgerald on a mixed bag of meds and Liza Minnelli swinging [...] 2011-09-12 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-11-tommy-hilfiger-womens-ss12-new-york-review-74.html What a journey the Hilfiger brand has had. From the menswear line opening in 1984 and its soaring success that bookmarked in 2006 when the company was sold, onto where we are today, a brand that’s been recapturing attention spans for a couple of seasons. With Peter Som designing and stylist Karl [...] 2011-09-11 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-11-derek-lam-womens-ss12-new-york-review-73.html Who knew austerity could look so sexy and upbeat. I’m referring solely to the demure necklines deftly applied throughout the entire collection presented by Derek Lam. Cute buttoned up school collars, rectangular scoops on pinafores and neater than neat jewel necklines that graced the base of the [...] 2011-09-11 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-11-victoria-beckham-womens-ss12-new-york-review-72.html Simple, ladylike elegance was the key-note for the second show by Victoria Beckham whose polished collection will be adored by fans of the feminine yet professional feel that’s so now. Some may say deconstructed yet these pieces are carefully constructed. Here the female form is flattered without [...] 2011-09-11 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-10-alexander-wang-womens-ss12-new-york--review-70.html The language of technical sportswear is blooming on the catwalks, blended with futuristic lines that flatter and design details that lengthen limbs. Wang proposed a fantastic example of exactly this. Looks played with cotton netting and ski influences using modern materials that doubtlessly work [...] 2011-09-10 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-10-helmut-lang-womens-ss12-new-york-review-69.html A first for the reasonably recent reincarnation of the Helmut Lang clothing brand. Husband and wife design duo Nicole and Michael Colovos, who joined the company as creative directors in 2006, presented a lithe collection for the first ever outing on the New York catwalk for Helmut Lang….post [...] 2011-09-10 13:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-09-10-prabal-gurung-womens-ss12-new-york--review-71.html Well, we’re a long way from the SS11 collection by Prabal Gurung. Where this summer sun-bright colour blocking lit up Gurung’s rails, next summer this new designer (SS12 is just his sixth season) proposes dark violet with forms born from manipulated nature. A discussion across the female form [...] 2011-09-10 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-19-live-editorial-looks-listed-in-full-make-up-added--review-68.html As all the energy from backstage and on-set are captured, you can watch the A-Z of a fashion shoot and interact live with the team. LOOK 1 Top: Dusan Skirt: Rue du Mail Shoes: Rad Hourani Socks: Wolford Rings: Bernard Delettrez LOOK 2 Top: Mugler Underwear and Fishnet [...] 2011-07-19 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-06-jean-paul-gaultier-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-67.html Haute couture is the opera of fashion. The emotions are quite simply bigger. Why? It’s the scope of the clothes. It’s the one arena where designers with the aid of hundreds of specialised workers reach for those crystalled/sequined/encrusted stars. Skirts are bigger, shoulders are bigger and [...] 2011-07-06 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-06-elie-saab-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-66.html Elie Saab scored a tangibly emotional note amongst the female viewers who attended this couture show, the two women sitting next to me were certainly dabbing mist from their eyes. From the moment Anja Rubik opened, wearing a slim cut, backless and floor sweeping dress made from powdered, light blue [...] 2011-07-06 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-05-givenchy-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-65.html From the Givenchy Couture Studio:     "Riccardo Tisci brings Haute Couture into a new territory in which a heavenly harmony is as rich as it is elaborate. Angels meet birds of paradise to deliver an ethereal collection. A feeling of lightness gives life to the epitome of [...] 2011-07-05 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-05-alexandre-vauthier-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-64.html INTERVIEW | If Alexandre Vauthier is something of a David on the couture calendar (he was amongst the newly invited designers this season) then the Vauthier woman is emerging as a Goliath. The creative vision of this young couturier is to send intergalactic glamazonian women down the runway and the [...] 2011-07-05 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-04-bouchra-jarrar-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-62.html The minimalists couturier. At forty years of age Bouchra Jarrer is a young French designer who, after working as the studio director and right-hand woman to Nicolas Ghesquiére at Balenciaga before opening her own maison de couture three seasons ago, is winning fans with her signature touches. [...] 2011-07-04 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-07-04-jantaminiau-couture-fw11-12-paris--review-63.html INTERVIEW | Welcome to the curious world of Dutch couturier Jantaminiau. Instead of interpreting his unique vision through our own words we caught up with the designer straight after his show to hear what he had to say: Now Fashion: Hello, what an extraordinary show Jantaminiau: [...] 2011-07-04 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-25-ann-demeulemeester-ss12-mens-paris--review-61.html Ann Demeulemeester’s menswear collection was framed by songs by Nico whose most admired album is titled Desert Shore. As the voice of German singer and Warhol superstar Nico rang through Demeulemeester’s large venue, her models walked steadily over golden sand wearing black and worn hues. The [...] 2011-06-25 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-24-givenchy-mens-ss12-paris--review-60.html Riccardo Tisci plays with traditional perceptions of luxury and ice-cool masculinity like no other and has created his own language and era in the continuing story of Givenchy. In his hands street wear and Latino gang style turns deluxe and today’s collection will doubtlessly be snapped up. The [...] 2011-06-24 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-22-mugler-ss12-mens-paris--review-56.html This, the second menswear collection for Mugler by creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer showed a partnership that’s beginning to take form. Something is started to peek through. They married the club kid (which they both were and arguably still are) via pastel neons, [...] 2011-06-22 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-20-versace-mens-ss12-milan--review-57.html Hello Miami. Versace presented a collection that was colourful and retro (ie. rifled through the history of the house) yet took us onto the near future with some nifty details redesigned. Zipping around in Donatella’s time machine is the best fun. Today, all the bon-bon colours of art deco Miami [...] 2011-06-20 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-19-vivienne-westwood-man-mens-ss12-milan--review-59.html The Vivienne Westwood MAN show reminded all of the big event that will be happening in London in the summer of 2012: the olympics. The Olympic flame, a gathering of gold medals and a dance of Grecian olympiads appeared as prints on t-shirts while models heads were adorned with laurel wreaths. [...] 2011-06-19 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-18-burberry-prorsum-mens-ss12-milan--review-54.html Brixton dandy sprung to mind when the Burberry Prorsum show got underway and afterwards, lots of reminiscing about the incredibly rich, colourful street fashions worn by the young blades of Jamaican and Afro-Caribbean descent during the 70s and 80s in the South London district began. It was hard to [...] 2011-06-18 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-18-frankie-morello-mens-ss12-milan--review-53.html A variation on culottes was one of the key ideas presented by Italian design duo Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti for SS12 and it came in blue denim, tangerine, beige and corn blue, colours that stretched across the entire collection. If the SS11 collection was all about camping it up on [...] 2011-06-18 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-18-dolce-gabbana-mens-ss12-milan--review-52.html Oh the delicious humour of hearing the very tongue-in-cheek ode to damsel’s in distress from Kill Bill 2 as Dolce & Gabbana’s city superheroes and workmen saviours leisurely carved open the catwalk like knives through a ripe peach. It was like seeing tens of Clark Kent’s wearing mirrored [...] 2011-06-18 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-18-costume-national-mens-ss12-milan--review-51.html Designer and co-founder of Costume National, Ennio Capasa delivered a modern, minimal and urbane take on the Teddy Boy this season with multi-permutations of two-tone, pointy brothel creepers worn by every model that padded across the runway. Trousers came in two themes: low slung, panel fastened [...] 2011-06-18 12:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-06-18-corneliani-mens-ss12-milan-review-50.html There’s a fluidity to the Corneliani cut and silhouette, as if the Corneliani man moves through any territory or situation with ease. His clothes, whose roots lie in traditional Italian tailoring, are laid back yet precise and always made from luxurious fabrics and textiles. Wide notched lapels [...] 2011-06-18 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-06-givenchy-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-49.html Cats in hats and violent violets at Givenchy. The dead of night was portrayed on the catwalk as the gleaming eyes of panthers glared from black pencil skirts, mohair jumpers and collarless jackets. Wreaths of flowering iris encircled faces of the growling predators or, boom, out of nowhere Betty [...] 2011-03-06 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-06-hermes-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-48.html The oasis in the storm. Cutting to the chase, Hermès just has a different character to the other luxury brands. It doesn’t attract custom by ceaselessly shoveling cash into the huge, arguably exhausting, arguably irritating engine of the modern caste system - celebrities - but rather invites [...] 2011-03-06 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-05-sonia-rykiel-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-47.html Sonia Rykiel infused her runway presentation with warmth and good humour. Her models stopped to chat and smile as they walked through a stage set made of metal fencing and artily placed neon strip lighting. For fans of Rykiel clothing, her familiar flourishes were present: the strong colours, bows, [...] 2011-03-05 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-04-vivienne-westwood-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-44.html All hail Viv’s barmy army for they are veritable Boudica's in pinstripe and taffeta! For the Gold Label pret-a-porter show, models wore army helmets, feathered safari hats and one walked reading, we suspect, Vivienne Westwood’s manifesto. Emerging from all of this was the Westwood goddess. Her [...] 2011-03-04 18:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-04-maison-martin-margiela-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-46.html More often than not, I’m tipped off to the presence of a Margiela store on a Parisian street by the interesting women who begin crossing my path. If Maison Martin Margiela catwalk shows are a little confusing, it doesn’t matter on the shop floor because the kind of woman I see browsing MMM can [...] 2011-03-04 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-04-christian-dior-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-45.html Stand and deliver. Eighteenth century dandy highwaymen and louche libertines were the theme for the autumn/winter season of womenswear at Dior held at la Musée Rodin. Buckled platform boots laced all the way up to the knee and folded at the thigh. Little caped jackets kicked out from the breast [...] 2011-03-04 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-03-rick-owens-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-43.html Ingmar Bergman’s The Seventh Seal meets high luxury. Rick Owens delivered a wonderful surprise this season by unearthing another face of romance from his gothic aesthetic. Models wore knitted cowls or mink wimples that proposed a beautiful, precise way of framing perfect maquillage for women [...] 2011-03-03 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-03-balenciaga-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-42.html The king of technical fabrics and directional ideas in fashion, Nicolas Ghesquiére and the Balenciaga team presented thirty-four looks that both awakened the eye and curiosity about textures used.  A tough looking leather maxi-plat, first in a bomber jacket shape then gilet then scarf come [...] 2011-03-03 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-02-gareth-pugh-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-41.html A shiver of excitement went through the crowd as the opening chords of Kylie’s Confide In Me accompanied a wall of gold flashing lights at the end of the dark catwalk. What did it mean for the clothes? What was Pugh about to send down the catwalk? What transpired as the collection filed down the [...] 2011-03-02 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-02-dries-van-noten-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-40.html A triumph. At todays Dries Van Noten show the audience witnessed a collection that was really quite moving. The language of DVN is relaxed, adult sophistication with tailoring; the style with which this was married to elements that are pop ie. clashing prints, psychedelic patterns and zany bobby [...] 2011-03-02 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-03-01-thimister-womens-aw11-12-paris--review-39.html A much anticipated show, Dutch designer Josephus Thimister drew a large crowd to mark his formal return to pret-a-porter. Thimister was the creative director of Balenciaga before Nicolas Ghesquiére was appointed in 1996. Ironically, on a day that was overshadowed by the news of John [...] 2011-03-01 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-26-jil-sander-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-37.html A gentle masterclass in architectural lines that accentuate and play with the human form. And incase the clothes didn’t already speak their own identity, Raf Simons the creative director of Jil Sander also chose one of his favourite film composers, Bernard Herrman, to soundtrack a portion of the [...] 2011-02-26 15:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-26-bottega-veneta-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-38.html Spray-painted lace, frayed hems and a run of different textures achieved by artisanal techniques (including tea staining) appeared on the catwalk for what feels like a conceptual collection by Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta. Model Karolina Kurkova opened the show wearing a voluminous, [...] 2011-02-26 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-25-versace-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-36.html A surprise from Donatella Versace. Not a volta faccia but still, as the tendrils of Versace’s flowering vine print curved up the hips and across the hearts of the models dresses with buds on the cusp of blooming, the effect was gentle. With the preferred models of our time generally chosen for [...] 2011-02-25 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-25-gianfranco-ferre-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-35.html A very minimal ‘less is more’ collection of chic daywear by the design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi who began as creative directors at the Italian fashion house in 2009 following the passing of Gianfranco Ferré in 2007.  All fastenings were hidden and any straps were more [...] 2011-02-25 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-25-moschino-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-34.html Genteel and blithe, the models in this catwalk show could have been the all female movie cast of an Italian comedy of manners set on an upper class country estate entirely wardrobed by Moschino. Oh what a film that would be! All that was missing here was the suave figure of Mastroianni who starred [...] 2011-02-25 09:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-24-prada-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-33.html Astonishing. Never in our lives could we have anticipated wanting a plastic goldfish dress topped with a fake fur Dandelion helmet bottomed by suede and python knee high boots. It all sounds completely implausible. Yet, while the voice of Ingmar Bergman prefaced singing by Greta Garbo and the [...] 2011-02-24 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-24-fendi-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-32.html There was something quite Saturday afternoon about this seasons Fendi woman. As the up-market pop out to the market just to get some bits, she throws on a fur coat over cashmere track pants. Or, browsing antique shops, she’s all comfy picking out furniture wearing woolly ribbed tights and slacks [...] 2011-02-24 11:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-23-alberta-ferretti-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-31.html Design, outer-space and the future are like the three graces in culture, eternally entwined. For fashion designers caught between the body and the blank page, the notion of tomorrow and next are liberating muses. For Gareth Pugh, the future contains horror but we’ll see the beauty in it. For [...] 2011-02-23 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-23-gucci-womens-aw11-12-milan--review-30.html Frida Giannini debuted her first ready-to-wear clothing collection for Gucci in spring/summer 2005. Today and right from the very first look on the runway, model Natasha Poly wearing a striking teal and grey silhouette, it was clear that Frida Giannini’s newly found, winning stride at Gucci [...] 2011-02-23 14:45:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-17-calvin-klein-collection-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-26.html It was all about the silhouette and textures at Calvin Klein this afternoon. Minimal? Affirmative. Latté colours? Roger that. The skirts were A-line and a sculpted jacket sleeve peeped out here and there. The design was womanly, austere even with flat-plats being the shoe of the show. None of the [...] 2011-02-17 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-16-proenza-schouler-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-27.html In the 90s lots of British rave apparel took inspiration from American Indian blankets but it was all very baggy and unstructured with hoodies and rucksacks built for all-night, outdoor parties. How nice was it then to see this theme return in an entirely different context, the ultra modern, urbane [...] 2011-02-16 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-16-3-1-phillip-lim-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-29.html We love a culotte. And a Chola! But it has to be said, amongst this collection reportedly part inspired by Mexican and Japanese gangs, we saw nothing that reminded us of our favourite lip-lined Hispanic ladeez. Never mind, Phillip Lim kept our eyes occupied with a front-pleated trouser that came in [...] 2011-02-16 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-16-jeremy-scott-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-25.html Kerpowowowow! In the world of fashion Jeremy Scott is the king of pop and hurrah for him because this collection, titled 'Candy Flip', jolted us right out of our seats from the very first photo – we knew he would, we wanted him to and he didn’t disappoint. We haven’t felt like this since oh, [...] 2011-02-16 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-16-michael-kors-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-28.html Michael Kors celebrated his 30th anniversary in fashion by sending out sixty-three (the record for this season in New York?) wonderful looks of polished American elegance that took its cue from disco but nevertheless felt timeless. Each look was one colour or monochrome and it was an [...] 2011-02-16 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-15-herve-leger-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-24.html Husband and wife team Max and Lubov Azria have designed the Hervé Léger line since its relaunch in early 2007 (AW08/09) and you’ve got to give it to them, they not only understand the DNA of the brand but keep us interested. Hervé Léger equals the bandage dress that was so va-va voom in [...] 2011-02-15 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-15-rodarte-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-23.html Always a delight to watch, the Rodarte show is amongst the most warmly anticipated of each New York fashion week. Inspired by the American Prairies, Kate and Laura Mulleavy's new, incredibly romantic collection featured lots of day-dream invoking colours such as ‘dawn wheat’, ‘dusk wheat’ [...] 2011-02-15 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-14-marc-jacobs-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-20.html Well I don’t know about you but I love an aggressive polkadot. But first, walking through a set that resembled a luxurious padded cell (a couture asylum? Can we go there?) every one of Marc Jacobs’ models walked with one direction tonight: fierce. As they marched, following a clear, broken road [...] 2011-02-14 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-14-thom-browne-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-22.html American designer Thom Browne has become famous for mise en scéne when it comes his fashion shows, nobody ever knows what to expect. During Paris mensweek in January he presented models, all resembling Johnny Depp’s madhatter, standing eerily around a decadent dinner table. On February 13 in New [...] 2011-02-14 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-14-carolina-herrera-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-21.html Walking to atmospheric, down-tempo electronic music, rising model Arizona Muse opened the Carolina Herrera AW11/12 show with grace, wearing a slate grey, felt wool dress coat with deep Claret velvet belt. Herrera, the Venezuelan born designer who rose to fame in the 70s and 80s (she opened her New [...] 2011-02-14 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-13-tommy-hilfiger-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-19.html A solid collection by Tommy Hilfiger where feminine tailoring met romantic 70s rock chic. Anita Pallenberg meets Al Capone if you will. Grey marl, double-breasted suits (with added pocket handkerchief's to add splashes of colour) opened the show followed by multiple versions, a long coat and a [...] 2011-02-13 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-13-derek-lam-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-18.html The Derek Lam woman is classy, cultured and a little different. How perfect then that the theme tune to I Am Love, the Oscar nominated Italian film starring Tilda Swinton should soundtrack Lam’s entire show. As the chimes of John Adams’ orchestral theme filled the venue, all of the Jil Sander [...] 2011-02-13 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-12-altuzarra-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-17.html There was something kind of college campus about this collection. Not the uptight, ironed, preppy look, there was none of that but the slightly cooler college vibe; kids who dig grunge, Brit-pop, jump around to punk and wear a flowing printed dress under a moochy Parka coat to fend off the winds. [...] 2011-02-12 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-12-alexander-wang-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-16.html ‘Strong and fast’ were Wang’s backstage directions to his models. Sure enough, as if charging through freezing elements, Alexander Wang’s ladies sped across a geometrically laid walkway to the purposeful beats of The Prodigy’s Breathe and tough woop-woop siren’s of Nicki Minaj, Did It [...] 2011-02-12 17:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-12-prabal-gurung-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-15.html The second collection to catch our eye during #NYFW, we delved into the history of Mr. Garung and unearthed more treasure. Raised in Kathmandu, Nepal, Garung’s fashion career began in New Delhi, India where he worked with Manish Arora who’s just been named creative director of Paco Rabanne. [...] 2011-02-12 12:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-11-jason-wu-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-14.html A chic, monochrome collection by twenty-nine year old Jason Wu. Based in Manhattan, Wu is famous for designing the inauguration gown of Michelle Obama however in fashion, he’s one of the more interesting talents to show during New York Fashion Week. Having won the Fashion Fund Rising Star Award [...] 2011-02-11 13:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-02-10-victor-de-souza-womens-aw11-12-new-york--review-13.html Argentinian by birth and a couturier by training, Victor de Souza produced his very first collection at just eighteen years old and debuted at Paris fashion week in 2002. Since launching his own, American label in 2009 (he was previously creative director at Ruskin), VDS is known for applying [...] 2011-02-10 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-26-jean-paul-gaultier-haute-couture-ss11--review-10.html Glorious. Today, Jean Paul Gaultier delivered an haute couture collection of substance that felt like a dream, ending with a finale that will go down as a landmark in Andrej Pejic’s young modelling career. The impossibly elegant voice of Madame Catherine Deneuve introduced each of the forty-seven [...] 2011-01-26 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-26-on-aura-tout-vu-flying-dreams-couture-ss11--review-11.html show notes: Lily-white doves vanish in the skies towards radiant horizons in a flood of magical euphoria. Rebel Amazons dressed in ethereal laces whirl around in a never-ending dream. Their secret wish is to recover the fairy tree of comets that will bring them closer to the sun. In this [...] 2011-01-26 10:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-24-alexandre-vauthier-couture-ss11--review-1.html Alexandre Vauthier, the young French haute couturier has begun to gather quite the cult following amongst fans of all ages. There’s something about his sartorial brew makes haute couture feel now, connected to the pop cultural zeitgeist and thus incredibly alive. It's no wonder then [...] 2011-01-24 17:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-23-paul-smith-menswear-aw11-12-paris--review-12.html Cosmic rock met space travel in a strong show that immediately plugged us right back into Smith’s continuing and very pleasurable odyssey through rock’n’roll. Show notes acknowledged an homage to the spirit of Captain Beefheart and the first models walked to Pink Floyd’s One Of These Days. [...] 2011-01-23 16:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-22-petar-petrov-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-9.html Independent designer Petar Petrov makes wearable, casual mens clothing with high-end materials. Described by Petrov as "our typically easy-going, boyish ideal with a real sense of sophisticated luxury", his clothes are indeed young in spirit and have that pared down architectural vibe that [...] 2011-01-22 18:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-21-walter-van-bierendonck-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-4.html Fierce pastels! Following his SS11 defilé that was a visual delight of clashing, cotton plaid prints, Belgian designer Walter Van Bierendonck continues his always fun, always colourful, always creative vision with a collection named 'Hand On Heart'. One after another, tall French models, all of [...] 2011-01-21 14:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-21-gustavo-lins-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-6.html A strong collection with a clear line of thought throughout, Gustavo Lins, who began his own line of clothing in 2003, is one of the independent Paris based designers worth checking. His training in architecture is evident in this collection that's extremely wearable. In the show notes Lins [...] 2011-01-21 11:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-20-yohji-yamamoto-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-3.html A collection that deftly touched centuries and brushed decades: Victoriana met the future by pairing thick wool gabardine suits, chained waistcoats and white cotton shirts (band collars, wing collars, crisp buttoned down collars) with up to the minute trainer technology. A palette of greys, [...] 2011-01-20 20:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-20-dries-van-noten-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-5.html Adorning lapels or a dash across collars, Dries Van Noten’s AW11/12 show was unified by splashes of white on a collection that moved through a palette of navy and dark browns. At the show, over sized overcoats and baggy trousers seemed to dominate but in fact, on revisiting the collection [...] 2011-01-20 19:00:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-20-jean-paul-gaultier-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-8.html Entitled "James Blonde", JPG's incredibly entertaining show delivered exactly that in two parts, prefaced by acrobatic ninja's that somersaulted across the raised catwalk. First, walking to composer John Barry's theme tune to the Bond series, came a tall, classically handsome model in a black [...] 2011-01-20 16:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-20-louis-vuitton-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-7.html If rumours are to be believed, changes are afoot in the menswear design team at Louis Vuitton but let's wait for the luxury brand to make its own announcement before calling it. A whopping forty-seven looks walked the long, dark runway where spotlights picked out the models who presented a [...] 2011-01-20 14:30:00 Sarah Hay http://www.nowfashion.com/2011-01-19-thierry-mugler-mens-aw11-12-paris--review-2.html The debut defilé by newly appointed creative director Nicola Formichetti and menswear designer Romain Kremer for Thierry Mugler now shortened, simply, to Mugler. Entitled Anatomy Of Change the collection proposed pure wool suits, kid leather gloves and chiffon shirts mixed with latex jackets, [...] 2011-01-19 18:00:00