The Fall Winter 2012 show was inspired by something loftier than fashion: art. Three artists were referenced, mainly ‘‘André Kertész, who took distorted nude pictures in the 1930’s,’’ said designer Johnny Johansson backstage after the show. The photographer’s work clearly inspired dresses with wavelike patterns, pleated leather dresses in red and black, and padded, volumized jackets. It was a 360 degree turnaround from the Spring’s down-to-Earth collection, and a testament to the brand’s desire to push and reinvent itself every season.
Next, said Johansson, ‘’we also talked a little bit about the warrior woman, a strong woman.’’ Cue the wavelike prints reminiscent of camouflage, and patent leather coats matched with large waist-cinching belts. The belts and coats made models look almost mechanical- which made sense when one found out that the collection was also sparked by Hans Bellmer’s work on dolls. Bellmer made dolls to protest against fascism and body fascism as Nazism was on the rise; Acne’s women were strong- even militaristic- and represented both the oppressive time and the art that came out of it.
Shoes were inspired by surrealist shapes. And then there were the hats, just 6; ‘’gardener’s hats’’, said Johansson, and hats inspired by uniforms. ‘’I really like the character play in the collection, and they had this pop aspect all the time,’’ said Johansson. No easy feat translating such a concept into something as fleeting as fashion.
-Ria de Borja