Aganovich Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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A stylized dandelion and the title “Machine” announced an Aganovich show that pleasantly surprised, as the models stepped out in the rather industrial looking basement of Salomon de Rothschild erstwhile grand home.

Out came voluminous coats, contrasting colors cleverly peeking out the collar, discreetly revealing themselves with every step or shimmering subtly through sheer fabric.  The asymmetries played well with the clean lines of these dress coats and when fabrics contrasted, it brought nubby wool in focus with a thick silk duchess that was very compelling. It is clear that a lot of work went into the selection and preparation of these materials, as underlying fabrics seem to have been bonded to the outer ones, becoming more than a simple lining. Contrasts were sharp, in color and materials, but very well thought out. A striped thick silk evoked lush pajamas, as did the shape of the top, with its oversize breast pocket and asymmetric collar, but ended in faux-box pleats that gave a flash of legs. As a whole, their fall-winter was tactile and sensual, inviting despite its strict lines, lush through its fabrics and color palette of violets and russet, blues and textured blacks.

Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor have dialed down the costume-y feel of their clothing, and save for the clown make-up making a discreet appearance mid-show, as is their custom, it felt like a renewed proposal. Their inspiration seemed drawn from early twentieth century working class wardrobe, with hems kissing the ankles, voluminous skirts, puffed up sleeves and even in the draped silk boots, whose toe evoked the era’s practical boot shape. In a sense, this collection felt more readable and also wearable than their puzzle piece wardrobes of seasons past, and will possibly reignite interest where it had started to flag.

- Lily Templeton
 

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