There was a thought that Alexandre Herchcovitch kidnapped girls from the compound for his Fall 2014 showing. High necks, long sleeves and doll-like ruffles could have just as easily appeared on Nicolette Grant or any one of her sisters back in 2011’s Big Love series on HBO just as easily as it appeared at Milk Studios last night. But chatting with the Brazilian designer after the show brought up no mention of Mormons.
“We took two very different inspirations: underwear and camisoles and also very structured tailoring,” he explained. Those underwear and camisole inspirations were clear in a very Tim Burton, slightly deranged sort of way at the beginning of the collection, shoulders shrugged off and garments slightly askew. They gave the collection a delicacy, especially when combined with the handmade Brazilian lace.
The structured tailoring inspirations were clear as well, in a full length sleeveless trench coat, that comes double breasted and nipped at the waist, as well as a trio of red looks, all belted, and all in wool.
And though the collection was indeed both strong and well executed – just the right amount of drama at times with the high shoulders and billowing arms – one couldn’t help but wonder if those shades would be going into production as well. The mostly lightly tinted, perfectly rounded frames were certainly keepers.