Alexandre Herchcovitch is, next to Pedro Lourenço, Brazil's most successful designer in terms of international recognition. And with both, his menswear and womenswear brands presented at SPFW, and his second line “Herchcovitch”, to be showcased at Fashion Rio next week, he is certainly also the busiest designer on Brazil's ready-to-wear schedule.
In this sense, it didn't came as a surprise, that Herchcovitch decided to leave the bustling fashion week tent of SPFW behind, where nearly all the other brands showcase their collections, to have his very own, intimate, and atmospherically show, at São Paulo' s Municipal Theater. Somebody who has the merit of designing a total of 3 collections per season clearly seeks to stand out with his work.
Underlined by a classic music play of the theater's in-house string quartet, Herchcovitch sent his models on the catwalk, who sported a lingerie-inspired ready-to-wear, crafted from wool, cotton voile and cashmere jerseys, in nude and beige shades, and adorned with ruffles, volants, peplums, and frilly trimmings, for opulently worked yet nonchalantly sported designs. His delicate take on fabrics was emphasized by négligée-inspired intricate lace dresses, produced in collaboration with Brazilian designer Martha Medeiros.
The nonchalance was in fact exaggerated, with randomly dropped sleeves and straps, that were meant to provide a casual just-rolled-out-of-bed feeling. Besides, the clear reference to Victorian dressing gowns, there was also something quiet sharp about the cuts, emphasized by a row of woolen outfits, in bright red and magenta hues. “The idea was to work with very light fabrics, similar to the ones used during the 18th and 19th century, for underwear. But then, I also wanted to break with this historical touch, by focusing on wearable, contemporary tailoring.”
We still can't figure out, whether Herchcovitch's Fall 2014 woman was a precious Lolita, or Madame Bovary's dream of it, but the collection was quiet desirable.