Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Future generations may blame Alexandre Vauthier for the global warming generated by his show from heady start to the last of its orgasmic afterglow. Ever since his debut, he has been redefining a new vocabulary for today’s glamazons. This season was no different; his silhouettes were white hot.

Perfumer and friend of the house Francis Kurkdjian later coined the perfect description, saying “Alexandre wanted an oriental from the cold” to describe the scented ambience he created for the show. But that fit the collection down to a T as well with its sensual furs and harem pants that revealed a (well-shaped) leg with every step.  The mathematical precision Vauthier’s usually imparted in his cuts didn’t seem quite as strong this iteration, with its flowing, bandage-like wrapping around the body. But who’s complaining when you’re wrapped in a pantsuit column of champagne silk satin?

And his V was worked in perhaps more subtly than on other occasions, as triangular pieces worked together in an asymmetric waistline, or the cutout of a bandeau top. Of course, there were still leg-barring up to there, a jaw-dropping open back on a fuzzy powder blue sweater. Most attractive were his jackets, tailored with manic precision. It’s easy to see how these will trickle down in his ready-to-wear and how fast they will fly off the shelves.

“If you’re going to celebrate femininity, why not go the whole nine yards and do it right,” the designer commented backstage to one editor. Lindsay Wixon, glorious pout and all, closed the show in a sparkling dress with a dramatic baby blue marabou train. Why not indeed.

- Lily Templeton
 

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