Watch the video of the Alexandre Vauthier Couture Spring Summer 2012 in Paris:
Alexandre Vauthier’s Glamazon women are on hiatus. The designer, who has worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler, has created, in his young career under his own name, a majority of designs that are part warrior, part siren of the night.
Spring Summer 2012 adds a new woman to the Gauthier roster. Less strict, she prefers more flexible lines. She has a relatively more delicate demeanor, smaller shoulders, and neat, upswept hair.
Dresses wrapping the body in the back and ending in a deep V to expose the chest and stomach, and with an inverted V to display the thighs--which were seen in rigid cuts with sharp shoulders last season and a dark come-hither feel the season before--were transformed into long flowing pastel dresses. Sash-like flat belts dangled and left airs behind: sewn into the layered skirt of a black dress, softening the glare of pen ink textured pants, or accessorizing a beaded ivory dress. A blouse made of tassels had the kind of graceful peek-a-boo factor--also seen in a feather and pearl vest--that displayed the designer’s other talents. Who knew?
Gauthier was recently announced creative director of the Pyrenex Premium line; precise cuts are seen in his structured puffer jackets. That same precision was apparent in the show’s lounge-y black ensembles--along with a late 70s and early 80s glamour feel that we’ve seen in his other couture collections, but it was certainly a nice surprise this season to see, dare we say it, elegance.
-Ria de Borja