The season's undisputed sportswear vibe came across loud and clear in Alexandre Vauthier's ready-to-wear imagery shot by Mathieu Cesar in glorious color. Between the American footballers and the unmistakable fabric choices of sportex mesh and t-shirt slub, cut into easy-as-pie dresses, the couturier's models looked like they were ready to play ball. Red roses and a football? That would be the perfect summary to describe this completist wardrobe. Throughout, his collection was on-par with the razor-sharp tailoring that he proposes, from jackets with contrasting edges to the butter softness of his now famous motorcycle jackets. Leather aviator jumpsuits, knit jersey dresses figuring a redevelopment of his Python banding, a tote bag that folds into a clutch, some jewelry, tee-shirts (no doubt to go with those "couture denim" he did a season or two back), swimsuits... the entire Vauthier universe was unfurled in the confines of his elegant 8th arrondissement showroom.
Not being a fan of print, he doesn't use more than one per season. "Per year," he stressed, fingering the latest one, a catchy black-and-white destructured frieze that looks like houndstooth under certain angles. This particular one he found in the Clerici archives; dating back to 1928. It was desaturated and given a pop of his choice lime yellow. On this note, he proceeded to explain how his colors were chosen. The yellow featured a touch of green to avoid tonal clashing with pale skins, while his grays (seen on a safari shirt and fellows) was the chosen cool.
This is not an exercise in dumbing down his couture aesthetic. Rather, it's harnessing what is learned in that rarefied field to feed development. The sheer finale dresses of his couture are figured here, with less mousseline, but they are still a faithful representation. And they don't retail "cheap" either, so the workmanship is less, but still intense, he explained. Hearing Vauthier explain the thought process and deriving pricing for different techniques, materials and silhouettes, it is clear that his creative soul comes with a shrewd mind.
What's next on the cards? In addition to pre-fall and resort options, due to commercial demand, the couturier hinted at wanting to showcase his universe in its purest setting. A boutique, he is yet undecided whether to bite the bullet in Paris or elsewhere, could be the answer. An opening party would be the perfect setting to try out one of those easy little dresses, be this game home or away.