Allude Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

In the hands of Andrea Karg, knit becomes a quasi-magical material that she is able to transform into anything that she, as designer and founder of the German knitwear brand Allude, desires for her customer. On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, she offered a vision of endless possibilities stemming from a simple woolen thread. Established in the early 90s, Karg’s brand has made a name for itself as a household name for cashmere in Germany, and is expanding internationally.

For her first offering on the Paris runways, Karg proposed a warm winter berry palette, but for her spring/summer 2013 sophomore show, her mood was blue like endless skies. The first bars of the Chemical Brothers, remixed in house, gave a definite electronic flavor, and reminded of the credits parts of many video games, when the hero, having prevailed over dungeons and princesses in incomprehensible quagmires, finally sees the sky again.

True blue, electric blue, sky blue, celadon, Karg played on the endless nuances of air and sky to symbolize endless feminine possibilities. Leather and superfine knit, holographic surface treatments making a sky blue top shimmer atop fluid mottled shorts, a luxurious coat over a mini-dress- Karg reaffirms that summer cashmere is not just something left for air-conditioned megapoles. Transformed into a mesh, knitwear dresses downed a pair of slimmed-out palazzo pants and as a raglan-sleeved shift, transitioned from street to cocktail by slipping on a pair of gilded sandals.
But this was not a study in blue, as Karg contrasted this water and air palette in the same way that Chinese signs are used. Earth tones to ground it, a splash of red fire to kick it up- the palette showed a desire for sophistication that’s occasionally missed. Her vision was strongest and most alluring when paired with precise tailoring, rather than slouchy proportions.

Why knit, I asked. “It can be played with. Knit is still underestimated, but there are no limits on what you can do with it. It can become anything, even be covered as we did with our shine treatment. You can let your creativity go free,” she replied.

As whole, the spring/summer 2013 collection played on the versatility of knit. Andrea Karg manages to carve a niche for herself, showcasing her chosen material within an inch of its yarn. Far from playing on a certain physique or a definite brand aesthetic, she exposed backstage that her knitwear was designed to fit into the life of a woman, any woman, with her quirks and idiosyncrasies, and the innate female mysteries. “Nowadays, the demand is to let women find themselves.” Blue paradise found?

- Lily Templeton

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