The audience that arrived at the Antonio Marras menswear show were greeted by the unmistakable whirling sound of antique sewing machines being put through their paces by three generations of craftsmen. Even the designer’s own son was swept up in the action, sitting behind a machine and joining in on the presentation.
It was a nice touch considering that this collection, Marras’s return to the menswear catwalk, was a homage to the designer’s own father, a tailor who owned a prominent textile shop in Sardinia. Marras went as far as embroidering images of his father’s face on some of the button up shirts and used old fabric remnants from his father’s affairs as the starting point for the textiles he used to create this show.
“This collection is very focused with one main theme: tailoring,” said Marras stating the obvious. For there was no way to get around the attention to detail and cut of the designer's drop-crotch pants, the easy suiting - which needed a deft hand to keep them looking cool and not slouchy- and the urban outerwear. The roomy Fair Isle sweater and in particular the pieces that blended fabrics, like a coat that they melted from felt to tweed and final shearling at the hem, were other standout styles in the show.
Although much of this collection had an old school feel to it, with its muted hued vintage inspired fabrics, the treatment of those textiles was thoroughly modern. The polkadot ensembles that opened the show were printed Japanese needle cord. The Herringbone cloth was doubled with jersey to smooth out the fabric and a large portion of the retro looking pieces were given a modern twist with padding.
It all made for a show filled with heart and soul…and a fair amount of style.