Those who missed the Antonio Marras show because they had a seat at the overlapping second Emporio Armani show on Friday should make a concerted effort to go for a re see. This collection from the always romantic and imaginative designer was lovely in its dreamy originality.
Marras began this season thinking about the mythological stories he would tell his children about metamorphosis, like tales of Arachne or Daphne, when they were young. The idea of transformation solidified when the designer saw an exhibition of the fanciful sculptures by the artist Kathy Ruttenberg, which also dealt with this concept of transmutation.
Marras suggested that this was something of a bizarre start for a collection, but it ended up being quite beautiful. All of the hand-painted appliqué images (which the designer spent his whole vacation concocting) further embellished with perforated pink patent leather and beading, acted like three dimensional canvases for a man who really is an artist in his own right. As anyone who has ever received one of his whimsical show invitations can attest to.
When he wasn’t whipping up abstract art pieces masquerading as dresses, Marras was cutting them from bucolic prints, which felt a bit more familiar. What was surprising however, was the designer’s attempt to incorporate materials that fell well outside what he customarily turns to. To see him create a sporty perforated patent leather jacket, which he paired with a slim striped skirt, pointed to a man who is also in the process of his own metamorphosis.