Bora Aksu Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 London
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This season, Bora Aksu took a departure from his signature sombre aesthetic and returned to his Turkish roots. Unlike Orhan Pamuk’s melancholy (or hüzün) inflected memoir of Istanbul, Bora Aksu’s depiction of Turkey came from an altogether more joyous and alive landscape; the white sand, fishing boats and sun-faded facades of the Aegean coast.

Bringing up both his heritage and his childhood summers vividly to life, Aksu delivered his sculpted armour-hard silhouettes rendered in handwoven textiles and plastinated cotton, or infused with feather-light and sheer fabrics. While this structural juxtaposition stood out to a great effect in the darker ensembles, it did a disservice to the opening white looks, some of which appeared clumsily put together. 

Altogether, the movement towards a more saturated palette of sunflower yellows and climactic fuchsias added an exuberance and regality to Aksu’s summery ensembles. In the context of the collection, it was the Iznik tile patterns and easy white and blue stripes, accessorized with tiny poms and evil eye beads, that really sung and epitomized resort wear filtered through the rich cultural tapestry of Turkeys’ coast.



It was an image of Turkey that one does not usually see: one of easy, vulnerable femininity and serious artistry, perfectly expressed in the masterful crochet dresses that closed the show.

- Maria Dimitrova
 

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