Bora Aksu Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 London
60 View slideshow

Bora Aksu Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 London

The Bora Aksu shows, over the years, have fallen into one of two categories: the ones where the designer's brand of gentle whimsy has resulted in delicately romantic collections and the ones where that same romanticism is overtaken by his passion for craft and technique.

Today's outing, early on London's first day of shows, fell somewhere between the two. Inspired by the legendary nineteenth-century ballerina Marie Taglioni, it had all the right ingredients -- but the combination never quite added up to the sum of its parts.

It was largely, perhaps, a question of editing. There were lovely, simple shifts, and barely-blue ruffles slips, and fluttering dresses formed from tangles of ivory and peach lace. But these were too often submerged in layers of chiffon or cages of crochet or glittering costume jewels. Where the show veered off-script, in fact, it worked best -- particularly in densely embroidered Wedgwood-blue capes and separates that echoed the confident, modern tailoring Aksu showed in the same space last season.

There was a beautiful idea behind this show; you could see it most clearly in the opening and closing tableaux, with the clothes grouped in all their faded beauty into a stiffly regal portrait shot. Other labels (notably Bottega Veneta, Rick Owens, and Chloe) have used dance to create potent statements about movement and poetry in contemporary clothing. It would be great to see Aksu strike that balance of resonance and relevance again.