Bouchra Jarrar Couture Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Bouchra Jarrar is a perfectionist. Her haute couture collections have become a sort of laboratory where she researches, experiments, and refines her daywear designs down to a precision point. Her hunt for a faultless pair of trousers, a perfected perfecto jacket and silk evening gowns that achieved just the right balance between fluidity and form has become all-consuming.

This season she brought in a bit of urban edge into her refined designs. Jarrar tricked out her trousers with swags of silver metal chains and low slung belts. While her taunt jackets and elongated vests were embellished with shards of metal jewelry wrapping around the collar or circling a hip. The additions added a healthy shot of sex appeal to the designer’s polished pieces. She even experimented a bit with her embellishments covering an “evening” version of one of her vests with translucent iridescent beads or a wrap with fluttering feathers and golden crystals.

At this point, it would be difficult to argue that Jarrar has not found sartorial nirvana with her hallmark designs. She has got them down pat, knows them like the back of her hand. So, as much as it is always a pleasure to see a designer reveling in what they know best, it is also important to see them challenging themselves. They need to continuously be pushing into new areas of exploration and offering up innovation along with core creations to their clientele.

This is where Jarrar’s collection fell short. What went down the catwalk was expertly done, there is no question about that. But the show lacked any sort of sartorial element of surprise. Here’s hoping that she will find a few new fetish silhouettes to add to her already strong repertory. Her devoted clientele would surly be happy to make room for them in their closets.  

- Jessica Michault
 

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