At this point, the haute couture oeuvre of Bouchra Jarrar now has its codes firmly in place. The precision tailored pants, the harness-like wrap front scarf tops that leave the back exposed, the intricate woven tweeds, and the liquid asymmetrical gowns are now all staples in the designer’s sartorial lexicon.
This season she added to that base a more sensual element of design. Satin bras, trench coats that brought to mind dressing gowns, and semi-sheer long pleated skirts – which came with shorter modesty protecting miniskirts underneath – all brought boudoir influences into this season's offering.
The couture aspect of the show was most readily apparent in vests and wrap tops encrusted with feathers and textural beadwork. As impressive as these pieces were, they only seemed to highlight their clear contrast with the rest of the show, which slanted much more into the realm of ready to wear. Honestly, this is probably music to the ears of Jarrar's devotees, who already pay a pretty steep price tag for her perfectionist prêt à porter.
However, it would have been nice to see the designer stretch herself a bit more in terms of silhouettes. There are so many other wardrobe staples in need of her purist sensibilities that she could be exploring and putting her mark on.
It's time for Jarrar to take this house to the next level. And to do that she needs to diversify her designer repertoire further and faster.
(Re)discover the Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection right here.