Bouchra Jarrar is one of only a handful of female designers to have the honor to carry the official haute couture appellation, and her distinctively modern approach to the tradition has set her apart from her peers.
Jarrar's exploration of her chosen art form is deliberate, systematic and strategic. However, she still imbues her ensembles with a contemporary grace that women can relate to at the core of their being.
This season, in shades of just black and white the designer burrowed down even deeper into love of fabric development. The evolution of her complex tweed jacquards, which would expertly and precisely shift patterns along the hem of a coat or across the shoulder blades of a sleeveless dress coat, was impressive.
And while Jarrar’s silhouettes were exceedingly familiar, she was still able to update her favorite perfecto jacket, her love of easy draping and her always precisely tailored pants by sexing the designs up. Those perfectos were the basis of some short, zipper slit skirts and dresses. The draping of an ivory satin top would have the piece sensually sliding off one shoulder and turn to reveal an exposed back with fabric held to the body by just a silk cord across the shoulders. While pants looked super slick, cut as they were out of pitch black lacquered patent leather. And then let’s not forget about the two sheer tulle tops that left the models breasts exposed, but beautifully framed by fur or jet black beading.
Jarrar is not a fickle designer, changing themes and inspirations with each passing season. And it’s a choice that should be applauded in this world of short attention span styles. But even the most meditative designers need to explore new challenges. Jarrar needs to find another strand of genetic coding to add to her unpolluted sartorial DNA so that it too can evolve.