Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Fall Winter 2012 Paris
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What makes Bouchra Jarrar’s collections so appealing is that they look real. Yes haute couture is about creating dream worthy dresses, many of which will only see the light of day on a red carpet, which take you into another world created out of cloth by the designer. But what Jarrar does is craft ensembles that will have no less impact when they are worn, they will just do it with an urban grace that makes the haute couture dream feel like a reality.

This season the designer continued to develop what has become her signature shape of the wrap front, cowl neckline tops and jackets. But this time she took the idea further. She explored the man/woman idea that popped up during the menswear shows by taking iconic masculine pieces like the beige trench coat or classic blue pinstripe cotton shirting and giving them a feminine shape. Jarrar also showed alternatives to her expertly executed tailored pants in the form of A-line skirts that added balance, via volume, to the collection. Especially when paired with a sleeveless leather top or one in embroidered organza that mimicked the A-line shape to create a tiered look.

As always the designer had a focus on the waist, but this season it was much more pronounced with wide belts cinched in tight at the waist or embellished with a ruffle of stiff fabric. For evening-wear the designer kept things looking languid with dresses accentuated by a black and white flower print that wrapped low across the torso or came with a deep v-neck décolletage.

It must not be forgotn that it is often harder to pull off an understated collection than one that distracts with embellishments or adornments. With this show Jarrar proved that sometimes speaking in a whisper can garner the loudest accolades.

-Jessica Michault

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