The first look of the Bouchra Jarrar spring/summer 2014 show pretty much said it all. A pair of beautifully tailored navy trousers, which flared ever so slightly and finished millimeters above the floor, came paired with an asymmetrical vest edged in crunchy beading and a bolero bursting with iridescent russet hued plumes. It was a bold statement from the designer that she is here to stay. So all you other couture brands better watch your backs.
Jarrar honestly looked to be reveling in the recent announcement that her “Little Engine That Could” couture house had been awarded the official haute couture appellation. A stamp of approval that has embolden her to come a bit out of her comfort zone, something that many insiders have been nudging her do, and bring something new to the already well defined Bouchra Jarrar universe.
Besides the introduction of the striking feather and beaded pieces, the change came in the proportions of her silhouettes. Instead of the taunt and fitted pieces the designer has built a thriving business on, she offered longer jackets, fuller pants and some stunning asymmetrical vests that played with matte and shine fabrics.
Even Jarrar’s much loved leather perfecto jackets were loosened up and elongated. One glossy pitch black version with an overlay of creamy beaver pelts was a particular stand out. And sporty razor back maxi dresses cut from liquid satin were the epitome of understated chic.
In a season where real world couture is the name of the game a designer like Jarrar, who has been making that argument in every couture collection she has ever done, is in a pole position to profit from this sartorial progress.