Calvin Klein Collection Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 New York
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The DNA of the Calvin Klein brand is now firmly set in stone. Thus any collection sent down the catwalk must always tick the same sartorial boxes. It has to be minimal. It must look clean. And it most certainly should be sober. With that framework in mind it remains fascinating to see how designer Francisco Costa consistently and creatively comes up with new adaptations of the aesthetic.

For the fall/winter 2013 season the Costa focused his collection on precise tailoring with an ultra modern take on embellishments. Outfits cut in a single color from head to toe were constructed with strong padded shoulders on coats and jackets. The skirts were built from stiff double faced cashmere or sturdy leather. And the show’s sense of structure and rigor was only enhanced by the designer’s choice of belt buckles. They were clearly an oversized version of the metal roller buckles used by the military. It is an accessory that will surely be on the top of many stylish women’s “must buy” fashion checklist for next fall.

Where this collection really grabbed hold of the audience was in the clever and utterly contemporary ways the designer was able to adorn his pure designs. Incorporating a band of vinyl at the waist of a sleeveless coat or inserting little metal strips into a skit to hint at the outline of a grid pattern across the garment might sound simple enough but the precise way the designer executed the ideas made them exemplary.

And when Costa sent out supermodel Carolyn Murphy in the final outfit- a splendid black wool dress with a “car wash” panel skit that, when Murphy moved, opened up to reveal squares of supple mesh lace- it left the audience craving more.

- Jessica Michault

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