This is one of those occasions where I wish I were friends with Azzedine Alaia, a couturier of course but also somebody who’s passionate about the history of fashion and how it’s developed from a structural point of view and could give an informed commentary on the finer details in the build of the dresses that passed on todays catwalk. Ok all Calvin Klein shows are minimal, we get that but the ultra light dresses on todays catwalk just seemed to have structures so precise - bodice, darting, tuck, barely there flounce that in context of the brand felt dramatic - that they harkened back to centuries past whilst weaving in ultra modern elements, plays on the sports bra for example. This was minimal taken to the level of fetish and it was an awakener where pre-show I thought not to expect too much. But this is just me geeking out for a second, one doesn’t need to be a couturier to appreciate, buy or wear these clothes, far from it, the point is that the incisive cut and hard work has already been done; we as buyers are only asked to fall in love with the vibe and take the clothes onto new adventures and new lives. There’s a mastery in creating clothing that clings yet moves with the body (in this instance moving video images really did show off the clothes the best) and is confident enough to be all about letting the clothing adorn the wearer and not the other way around. A subtle sexuality, the sheer tuxedo front, pant-suit was divine. As someone who’s not been a fan of Calvin Klein lately, nobody was more surprised by this collection than me. Love that.
(words: Sarah Hay)