The Calvin Klein fashion show finished of New York fashion week in style. As always the celebrity quotient was high with actresses Amy Adams, Emma Stone and Diane Kruger sitting chicly side by side in the first row at the pristine all white show venue. And pristine would also be a good way to describe this minimalistic and sculptural show.
The Calvin Klein brand, as everyone knows, has built its name on unassuming ensembles that look stylish because they seem so effortless. But this season the effort that designer Francisco Costa put into the collection was a key part of what made the clothing work.
The designer came up with a way to create a certain constructional stiffness in fabrics like double faced satin by blending together different weights into one piece. For example the taunt torso of a jacket would give way to a more fluid alternative at the hip which would then stand slightly away from the body to ripple as the models walked down the runway.
When the models, their hair mussed and their makeup feather light, were not wearing cropped legged suits with rigid jackets crafted out of bonded panels or satin and sheer silk dresses paired with a viscose crepe bustier they wore Costa’s other take on feminine rigidity.
Those were the simple slip dresses that came covered in graphic black cable-like embroidery, which looked both utterly modern and just a tad sinister. In a show that had no real eveningwear to speak of it was these dresses that had the best shot at a spin on the red carpet.
- Jessica Michault