Calvin Klein Collection Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York

This year marks the ten year anniversary of designer Francisco Costa arrival at the helm of the house that Calvin Klein built. But you wouldn’t know if from looking at the designer’s latest collection for the company. This was a show that was as fresh and as innovative as something that you would expect from a designer still discovering and playing with the codes of an iconic fashion house.

As always Costa was respectful of the clean and minimalistic DNA of the brand he has so loving shepherded for a decade. But all the while he has been finding original ways to make this particular aesthetic continue to feel relevant, even a bit avant-garde.

From the first sleeveless exit, which almost looked like the model was wrapped up in a towel; this was a statement making show. That first look, which was crafted so that the double faced canvas top and skirt finished in a flap of fabric down the right side and designed so that the salmon pink inside of the material would peak out as the woman moved down the catwalk was a simple idea, excellently executed.

Other highlights of this impressive collection include a coat crafted out of strips of snakeskin that practically crackled with textural energy. And the final five outfits on which Costa experimented with movement though feathers and swags of yarn had a 1920s soul, but a modern state of mind.

Count on fashionistas pouncing on Costa’s very distinctive cargo pant option. Cut from stiff cotton twill the wide leg pants, with almost knee high cuffs, were bold in their simplicity. It’s easy to imagine Nicole Kidman or Rooney Mara- who were both sitting front row at the show- in the designers dove gray marbleized snakeskin pieces or his striking bandeau designed dresses that blended together panels of leather and silk.

This collection was compelling in the way it was able to balance directional design and wearability. If this is what ten years on the job does to Costa’s then bring on the next ten.
- Jessica Michault


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