"Soft modernity" was Gaytten's theme. It was a notion whose nebulosity dogged the catwalk, where deflated New Look looks simultaneously evoked Dior's stellar past. Pure shapes are given a rounded femininity, playing with texture and tone create a contemporary, luxurious silhouettes.
The show began well enough. The focus was on the waist—emphasized by a peplum's flare or a skirt's fullness. Gaytten also had taken inspiration from Dior's masculine tailoring and combined it with a ballet femininity which took shape through cinched waists to reveal splaying, with thickly-pleated skirts beneath in shades ranging from mauve through to red wine and powder pink.
Houndstooth is reworked with embroided leather ribbon and paired with layered organzas and gazers, Rothko smudged colors are presented in brushed mohairs and tweeds while gentelment's tailoring fabrics in "Faux noir" tones are pieced with leather and satin-cuir. Severed draped cutting, integral to the Dior jacket, in this collection, is paired with a new longer skirt, both pleated and semi-structured.
Wraparound knits looked poised for warm-ups before dance class, as did simple black long-sleeved tops worn with jewels sparkling around the necks and a new midi length of tutu skirt, which worked its way into almost every look.
For eveningwear Gaytten's gal looked to old school Dior, remakes evoquing the purity of the house's structural gowns, re-cut with sheer panelling, in a palette of blushed nudes and almost black, inky jewel tones. Silk knitwear is worn with striking, full evening skirts while bold embellishments take the form of oversized crystal motifs and molten sequin textures.