Italian designer Christian Pellizzari unfurled a fall winter collection that bore the sartorial elegance and depth of some of the old time greats like Gianfranco Ferré.
Despite the challenge of being young and perhaps underfunded, his collection was a shining example of Italian luxury. At the same time his designs have the potential to penetrate a younger demographic with items like sweeping wool capes and geometric, ethnic patterns that mirrored Middle Eastern and South American tapestries.
While many of his contemporaries chose to focus on sportswear, Pellizzari focused on suiting. Double-breasted wool and silky wool double-breasted blazers were classic on top but fringed on the bottom. Elsewhere silk jacquard suits, check ensembles and abstractly striped tuxedoes were finished off with floor-sweeping scarves instead of ties, for a modern, nonchalant twist. Sportswear included elongated baseball jackets and embroidered denim.
There were quite a few female looks focused on skirts: floor-length silk skirts fastened with velvet belts, lamé mini skirt suits and rigid leather flair skirts were a preview of more to come in his women's collection.
Pellizzari follows in the footsteps of designers Andrea Pompilio, Stella Jean, Julian Zigerli and Au Jour Le Jour’s Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana, who have all garnered mass fashion media attention after having shown at Armani’s theater.
Before starting his own label, he worked two seasons at French historic label Vionnet and has said he really embraced the French approach towards couture and affinity for lush, luxuriant fabrics. His pedigree and vision are just what Italian fashion needs.