Christophe Lemaire Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Christophe Lemaire's style no longer needs an introduction. The French designer is excelling in both fashion houses, in his own women and menswear ready-to-wear, as well as Hermès' womenswear designer – two parallel jobs that he handled smoothly and with success so far.

His collections signed under his eponym brand might not impress with a new look each season but does reveal high quality casual tailoring adapted to every day life situations. That's the thing about Lemaire, he takes it slow with fashion, he focuses on real clothing made for real circumstances in a sober yet sophisticated way. He understands that it is not always smart to follow the diktat of the fast-paced fashion industry. Why blow with the wind of change, if you succeed with your own signature style anyway? So, don't expect any frills or fanciness: Christophe Lemaire stays for lifetime essentials. The type of clothing you'll always keep in your wardrobe.

And yet, even if the designer keeps on cultivating some kind of fashionable status quo, Lemaire's collections always come with a subtle surprise, that makes his garments even more desirable. In this context, his autumn-winter 2013/14 focused on the new use of yak-wool and generous volumes through loose-fit cut and draping. Pullovers, voluminous blanket scarves and ponchos were thereby fully crafted in yak-wool, a very soft yet resistant mélange, next to loose-fit overcoats, which were made out of yak hair.

One could find some new variations of Lemaire's classics, that he always designs so well. A jean shirt with a Chinese collar stayed for a sophisticated use of Japanese denim. Sharply cut tweed tuxedos came along with multiple patch-pockets and lapels that were rarely symmetric – a bit displaced, in order to add some edginess – while, shirts were cut in a boxy way, resembling blousons. Moreover, Lemaire declined his usual chinos in tweed alpaca and opted for a few more casual pajama pants crafted out of silk.

The color palette kept it rather low-key and melancholic, mostly opting for off-white, grey mélange or dusty black, despite of a few hints of ginger and a floral printed men's shirt that, according to the designer, already set the tone for his next womenswear collection.

It's always a pleasure to see designers who do not yield to the pressure of seasonal runway madness and just focus on what they do best. This is what Lemaire has been doing ever since he started designing and we can only recommend him to continue this way.

– Elisabeta Tudor
 

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