Since the acquisition by French luxury conglomerate Kering, formerly known as PPR, Christopher Kane has red shifted its game, notably in its womenswear showing last season. Much the same could be said of the menswear presentation earlier today. The fall/winter collection speaks of a well-tailored, strategically edited offering made to optimise sales and achieve those returns for its investors. Heavily grounded on wardrobe staples that are made to last, the collection is relatable to a broad spectrum of men. Winter essentials like the parka and the sweatshirt have been treated with Christopher Kane's signature off-beat spontaneity such as rendering them in polyurethane and digital prints of DNA structures respectively. Value-addedness is imbued into each piece with a finishing that often creates an element of pleasant surprise.
The story for this collection revolves around "kooky science", a kitschy slant that is right up Kane's alley. It is fair to say that the silhouette and the bowl haircut bring to mind a familiar friend, Spock of Star Trek. But the main focus is on the graphic elements, a Christopher Kane menswear trademark. The eye is drawn to Kane's vivid full-bleed prints that have been transferred onto sweatshirts and a tracksuit where molecules in green and red vibrate rigourously against each other. The molecular designs were also translated into 3D on the mohair knit in the form of tactile pompoms on a lattice structure design.
As always, the kitsch is not left to its own devices and is always complemented with elements of understated luxury. A development from the Spring/Summer 14 womenswear collection is the use snakeskin motifs. On his menswear line, Kane adopted this particular exotic leather design and applied it on different fabrication techniques from embossed knits, to using actual snakeskin grafts to accent the footwear and gloves. They are subtly used and sometimes only privy to the wearer, an intimate detail which usually seals the customer's decision to buy. Kane seems to have thought not only about the image his clothes project but also what it does for his customers.
With each season Kane's collections are looking more like that of a global fashion brand, where creative elements are balanced with commercial sense rather harmoniously. This molecular collection continues in the DNA of the brand and has very well thrived upon close inspection.