Christopher Kane Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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It seemed poignant that this super-cool broad explosion of ideas by one of London’s most celebrated fashion showmen – as the first collection since the announcement in January that PPR was acquiring a 51-percent stake in his business - was bringing forward ideas from past collections; a kind of overview before embarking on the next installment of his career. As a metaphor for this mental flashback, Kane emblazoned a black T-shirt and dress with a colourful rendering of an MRI scan image of “the brain working healthily” with an electric crackle shooting out of it. Coloured images of brain activity also patterned a black silk dress with rounded shoulders, with a tinselly finale of dresses bristling with metallic wire, baguette beads and springy coil also wittily referencing brainpower.

This was no mere vanity project, though, as a collection rich in compelling items for the new season, especially in the outerwear department (like the opening oversized navy wool coat with a leather side fastener nodding to a kilt belt) and for party frocks. The slim ruby and sapphire velvet dresses joined by sections of guipure lace were lovely, as were the ornamental flower dresses that had a crafty feel, and off-the-shoulder dresses edged with blue feathers, which leant a feral, outdoorsy edge.

Kane is one of the arena’s most compelling composers, tinkering with different fashion notes before gathering them into a chorus, but this read more like distinct storylines, each of them entrancing the fashion crowd in their own special way.

- Katya Foreman

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