David Koma Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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For David Koma this season, fashion is most definitely cyclical. His collection centered on circles of undulating black quilted leather lined with thick grooves, resembling giant vinyl records, manipulated myriad ways to sculptural effect. He created layered A-line skirts out of the stiff material, with a lower level hanging down like a classic ruffle, say, and a top layer peeled back, creating a voluminous contrast to clean cropped biker jackets. They were also flattened out and used to form a curved body on jackets, riding up and flipping at the neckline to create structured collars, with red and nude variations working their way into the equation. The strong looks were finished with teetering black platforms and metallic neck collars.

Moving on from the leather, the circle theme also surfaced as curved V-necks on fitted dresses or as the inverted curves of athletic shoulders on multimedia dresses with flirty ruffle skirts, some – including a striking jet-black off-the-shoulder style -- patterned with glistening vinyl and metallic rings.

Itchy to revitalize things, as per his show notes, the buzzy young designer, who is known for his feminine, strong, sculptural designs, looked to the futurism of Courrèges and Pierre Cardin, and the “youthquake” their creations sparked way back when. In today’s saturated, everything’s-been-done-before world, he set himself a mighty challenging quest. Did he live up to it? There were no tremors in the show venue in any case, with the collection playing out more as one small, solid step in the burgeoning career of one of the city’s rising talents. One of the problems with the whole futurism theme is that it can look a little dated. And Koma, in his promising position, needs to be in the now.

- Katya Foreman

 

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