David Koma Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 London
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An articulate set of show notes is no guarantee that a collection is going to deliver on promised intentions - but tonight, in David Koma's case, the follow-through couldn't have been clearer. He said he wanted to build on his usual bold, angular shapes; to play with Mondrian-esque colour blocking; and to explore the broader possibilities of softening his aesthetic.

And that's pretty much exactly what he delivered. Instead of the uncompromising graphic dynamic of past seasons, a more fluid cutting style generated a markedly less rigid set of silhouettes. Ribbed white surfaces wrapped and coiled around the body, interwoven with sheers and crystal-studded grids, and with solid streaks of lemon, cobalt and powder blue.

It felt disciplined, yet coolly relaxed. And it was also all realised with clean concision; after all, Koma's attention is also focused on his upcoming runway debut for Mugler in Paris. But the simplicity suited him, particularly in the two tone colour-blocked dresses, and in the monotone pieces whose sinuous, form-hugging shapes were articulated with expertly-placed Mondrian-grid sheer cut-outs.

The other memorable point about Koma's show notes lay at the very end; not for the first time this week, the dedication was to Louise Wilson, the late course director at Central Saint Martins.

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