With Derek Lam, there’s always a message of American sportswear to be told. For fall, he carried that ethos through in clean, simple lines that focused on texture and inconspicuous layering. “Zoran and old Halston,” Lam said of his inspiration, in deft reference to those masters of minimalism who continually managed to reinvent themselves despite little change. Lam’s message wasn’t a literal interpretation but, rather, a personal introspect—now that he’s parted ways with his investor and bought back his business—combining his skill for sportswear with fine taste for color.
Crochet featured prominently in the well-edited 27-look show as a continuation from spring. “It has an artisanal quality to it,” said Lam, who also repeated his use of patchwork. Woven together, the stripes of leather created volume and swing that ultimately became his new take on evening. Another popular item was the cape. “Clean yet glamorous,” said Lam. Especially so when cast in navy, black and classic camel. The navy paired with the black created an urban feel while, when paired with white satin, as in the satin top worn with black wool trousers, felt refined. Particularly beautiful was a navy, black and white wool felt coat worn over an ivory lace dress.
Camel, meanwhile, was illustrated in the loose and roomy silhouettes a la one stunning cashmere duffel coat that offered all the notions of what sportswear means. A red, knee-length fox fur vest was by far the most extravagant item in the show.
- Jim Shi