There were a lot of things to love at the Derek Lam show. But that might be because much of it felt familiar. Lam’s proportions, color choices and even his minimalistic take on layered color blocking are all styles that have been fully integrated into the fashion forward woman’s wardrobe.
Lam’s oversized wool bouclé or double faced cashmere coats in shades of eye shadow blue, dove grey and blush pink picked up on last winter’s voluminous trend. His patchwork leather pencil skirt was a nice take on a fashion staple. While his A-line skirts and bonded sleeveless turtleneck tops and dresses are sartorial mainstays.
More original undertakings showed up with the designer’s play on seam work, that saw day dresses and slim skirt puckering and breaking open to reveal skin. A technique he returned to at the end of the show and embellished with gold beads to create an eveningwear alternative of the concept. Interesting too was the openwork knitwear designs, that were pulled apart and stretched to almost come alive as the models moved. A more subtle exploration of draping that saw a black rose motif skirt cut to leave a larger swag of fabric gathered at one side made for a piece with appealing asymmetry.
There was nothing earth shattering about this show. It didn’t push any envelopes or any buttons. But as luxury basics go Lam proposed some nice safe bets for next season.