To the beat of an electronica percussion, the hotly anticipated Diesel Black Gold menswear fall winter 2014/15 fashion show kicked off like a formidable military march into the future.
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad's first menswear collection for the brand cooly incorporated a science fiction military theme with Diesel's rock DNA.
"I am not really a sci fi fan, but I like the look of it and I feel like the collection injected a bit of that," Melbostad told Now Fashion after the show, amid a jubilant backstage atmosphere.
A lot of research went in to researching military elements and in the end looks were borrowed from international armies. Aviator jackets were inspired by the United States Airforce and overcoats inspired by Japanese officer uniforms, Melbostad said.
Footwear included Chelsea-style boots with metal-rimmed heels and toes. Knitwear included padded and textured looks treated with lacquered finish, while compact nylon parkas were generously doused in shearling.
The runway show peaked to a high when anatomically constructed leather pants with studded patchwork sauntered down the catwalk.
Elsewhere, strong yet subtly presented accents enriched the collection. Noble menswear patterns like herringbone and Prince of Wales adorned sharp tailored looks, while military accents included badges emblazoned with "Per Aspera as Astra 36". A latin saying, it is often translated as "Through Hardship to the Stars". It was also the title of a 1981 Soviet science fiction film directed by Nikolai Viktorov, which tells the story of 23rd century humanoid woman found by a reconnaissance starship and eventually saves her civilization from an apocalypse.
Though he said the slogan wasn't intentional or personal to him, Melbostad could tell a similar story. When Phi shuttered its doors, he was eventually found by Italian rough rock-inspired Renzo Rosso, probed to Italy from a more functional New York City. Norway-native Melbostad, here, in this strange land found a supportive design team and staff and was able to rise to star status here at Pitti Uomo in Florence.
Read the interview with Andreas Melbostad here http://nowfashion.com/interview-with-andreas-melbostad-diesel-black-gold-5762