The house of Dior has been through a bit. John Galliano went, Bill Gaytten – his right-hand man – stayed (for a bit); then Raf Simons was brought in and everything was fine. Until he left. And one of the biggest jobs in fashion was up for grabs, yet again – a design team duo led by Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux stepping in, and doing so incredibly well at that, during the interim. And then came the announcement: Maria Grazia Chiuri, one half of the much-loved wunderkind Valentino duo, would take the mantle. [CONTINUE READING...]
D-Day has arrived. Time for last summer’s fashion newsflash to finally reveal the new path for womenswear at the maison of Dior, with the debut of Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri. The first woman to take the reins of the women’s line at the LVMH owned brand, marking an important turning point. Leaving Valentino to Pierpaolo Piccioli, after working together for over twenty years, the designer moved to Paris and in 5 weeks created a new aesthetic for the label, all stemming from her vision. Actually, her visions.
“Monsieur Dior is the matriarch but there are other great designers who have contributed to the image of the brand because they have built elements of it,” explained Chiuri backstage a few minutes before the show. A relaxed atmosphere, a few laughs, a desire to talk and tell the story of the new direction “to talk about the woman to the women of today. For the first time, I have this opportunity.”
A revolution, wait a Dio(r)evolution which stands out in the T-Shirts which showcased a new look based on three words: couture, sport and pop. Consciously filtering in some of the house’s blockbuster pieces. The discipline of fencing was the inspiration, present in the quilted jackets, worn with flat sneakers and protected high boots. Neo-logo and neo-logo-ism. J'aDior (craze of the famous Galliano inspired J’adore Dior) on grosgrain stripes on the the sides of low top sneakers and the straps of lightweight dresses like the elastic waistbands on the underwear visible underneath long dresses. The street style progressed to a soundtrack that reinforced the feminine discourse, closing with Nina Simone's “Here comes the sun”. Airy tops drift over bleached jeans with heavy stitched pockets, very Hedi Slimane. The jackets a reinterpretation of the classic Bar. The visors underlined a love of sportswear with an architectural edge, a little Gianfranco Ferré. There were also the cartoony symbols on dresses, small stars on skirts, embroidered hearts and the number 8. Emblems and symbols dear to Christian Dior, probably best not to contradict him.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion