Dirk Bikkembergs Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan
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Dirk Bikkembergs, one of the original 'Antwerp six' graduate designers (alongside Anne Demeulemeester, Walter Van Bierendonck and Dries Van Noten) has since created a brand known for its ability to mix high fashion with the universe of football. Today however he flooded the catwalk with a series of casually tailored apparel that gave a nod to the 70s by way of light flares on trousers and featherweight military influences via peacoats and safari jackets. 

As the first run of models came down the runway, heads turned to take in the unique colour pallet. Navy was the baseline colour enriched by electric blues, teals and flashes of coral. The latter was a great accent particularly on a pair of slim-cut jeans that packed a great punch underneath a double-breasted, grey peacoat.

Through the second half of the show the abundant choice of jackets continued: double-breasted trenches, puffas, blazers and velvet suits with over-sized lapels to name but a few. The steal of the show was a dramatic, jet-black fur number.

The collection’s overall look was smart comfort. Trousers were smart, slim-cut while sweaters employed two-tone and sometimes three-tone geometric patterns. The 70s is a micro trend happening in Milan, only time will tell if it develops during Paris mens week that begins this Wednesday.

-Pascale Barget

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