As the brand expands in China, its second-largest single market by sales, Dirk Bikkembergs didn't hold back on the neon colors, skin-hugging silhouettes, and bling bling furs that are sure to captivate the Shanghai club scene.
Despite the press release about the Ski Rider man, Bikkembergs told Now Fashion backstage that the line was made for an ultra-masculine man and that the looks are driven by comfort and desire.
"If you don't create something desirable, you can't sell your brand," Bikkembergs said, adding that the line was actually not targeted directly to the Chinese or the Russian market (its first largest single market) but that the brand has great prospects there.
"We are one of the last brands to enter China. The luxury market there is absolutely saturated, but we are about quality, and I think that brands like us have the potential to do even better there," he added.
On the catwalk, designs ranged from mountain-inspired to extravagant fur numbers fit for Sacha Baron Cohen's satirical fashion-plate character Bruno. Bikkembergs said that he doesn't really like fur for men, but thinks that beaver and coyote work best.
Coyote-fur hooded jackets were paired with neon yellow turtlenecks. Attention to knitwear was a key part of the collection. Turtlenecks were patterned in geometric ice blue prints and ribbed wool sweaters possessed leather accents and intricate weaving.
The brand's sports couture concept was fortified by the fact that the whole industry is moving toward more casual designs, as we saw here in Milan and at Pitti Uomo in Florence.
"I think that the world is becoming incredibly more casual and I don't think we are going to go back to it being more formal," Bikkembergs added.