Dirk Bikkembergs got it right when he asked Italy's Inter Female Soccer Team to model for his first women's presentation in Milan, because it takes a real athlete to pull off his high-intensity sporty designs - even if they are now for girls.
Bikkembergs was inspired by his first visit to New York City in the 1970's when he crafted the 65-piece collection, which he split into two sections: the casual wear "Pop" collection and the "Zip" evening wear line.
Neoprene tops in lollipop shades of pink, sky blue and fuchsia were emblazoned with scenes from the crowded streets of New York City's Time Square. Hooded jackets and jumpers were crafted with geometric and ergonomic volumes, reminiscent of lazy Saturdays in Central Park.
In line with his sporty couture concept, Bikkembergs also showcased zip-up, wet-suit-like, form-fitting mini dresses, with skirts and tops made of the same material that looked more like scuba or surf gear rather than something a woman would wear on the city streets.
Accessories played a minor role and included a scarce array of ski scarves and hats, as well as tote bags.
The sun sets on the New York City skyline and evening wear ranged from polyester skirt sets to floor-length dresses, washed in black or lined with zips. All the looks were dressed down with rugged ankle boots, underlining the fact that this collection was envisaged for a real tomboy.
Indeed, the collection was a departure from some of the ultra-feminine, whimsical fashions we have seen on the catwalk this week. Overall, the lineup showed that the sports couture brand (as Bikkembergs so calls it) that counts Russia as its top single market, has no plans of altering its DNA to fit into Milan's seasonal women's fashion clique.