After seasons of campaigning through a myriad of Sicilian inspirations designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have gone on a new crusade for next winter. This time the starting point for their show are the Norman kings, the decedents of Vikings who once ruled in northern France and England.
While the inspiration was new this time around the execution of the concept was still very familiar. Each well chiseled male model, many of them wearing gold crowns, walked down the wooden catwalk in boxy luxe tops cut in velvets, leather or suede emblazoned with images of those long forgotten kings. The medieval procession of prints then moved onto include suits covered in cathedral patterns, coats adorned with knight’s armor and shirts that brought to mind a chessboard.
If a model wasn’t fit to be a king then that meant it was time for some knight’s attire. His chainmail aventail was transformed into a bejeweled knitted snood. His gloves came covered in gems, his sabatons became pearl encrusted slide on slippers. As the show progressed, the silhouettes that opened the show returned, this time the medieval motifs came outlined in beadwork for a more “after dark” alternative.
When the designers moved into the suiting segment of the show, transferring the bold prints onto button up shirts, their skills at cutting and tailoring came to the fore. The evening attire, which crafted pinstripe suits out of different strips of matte and shine fabrics, brought the show back on message. Although, they looked a bit closer to the garb of a court jester then a royal in repose.
Devotees of the brand are surly going to need to pay a king’s ransom to purchase most of the ornate attire on display at Dolce & Gabbana this season. It seems this brand doesn’t want to be seen as a “damsel in distress” house that needs aspirational shoppers to rescue it. No these Italian men are determined to craft their own sartorial salvation.