Adorning lapels or a dash across collars, Dries Van Noten’s AW11/12 show was unified by splashes of white on a collection that moved through a palette of navy and dark browns.
At the show, over sized overcoats and baggy trousers seemed to dominate but in fact, on revisiting the collection later, there was plenty of choice for all.
A tall streamlined silhouette stood comfortably beside the baggier option that took inspiration from Bowie’s zoot suit period.
Throughout, DVN seemed to be enjoying the play between the poised arch of military tailoring and the relaxed feel of more curved lines. ‘Glamour’ was a word used by Mr. Van Noten to describe the collection who illustrated this, in part, by detachable fur collars, acknowledged to be a subtle nod to cossacks. ‘Heroic’ and ‘gallant’ were also used and there was certainly elegance in the way that technical undercoats peeked out from underneath soft winter jackets or double breasted tailoring, ensuring that the Dries gentleman need never fret over any challenges that changes in weather might bring.
Soundtrack; a remix of David Bowie’s Golden Years.