Dries Van Noten Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Dries Van Noten is singing a sartorial lullaby to men with his fall/winter 2013 collection. One that soothed the soul with its relaxed and forgiving shapes cut out of supple silks, cashmeres and leather in shades of warm browns, brick reds and gold. Making for a much needed runway respite during this extra long menswear season.

“I wanted to create luxury things, a wardrobe filled with dressing robes and pajamas – all these things put on top of each other in a haphazard way. Not to think about how we have to put it together. It was really about how ‘the morning after’ you grab some clothes and that’s it,” said Van Noten about the feeling he wanted to convey with this show.

But this didn’t mean the designer was relaxed in his execution of the collection. This was a complex show that had a lot going on in each outfit, most predominantly prints. Van Noten displayed his mastery of the medium by seamlessly blending together an assortment of patterns both big (checks) and small (paisleys). But also bold paisleys again, and a tile-like raised design on a straight denim coat.

The designer also reveled that he wanted his man this season to be the boyfriend of the girl of his well received grunge inspired spring/summer 2013 womenswear show.  It was hard to miss the laid-back attitude of a rocker in repose after a late night of revere in the designer’s studded biker pants cut from three different fabrics like tweed, silk and denim. And only a self-assured rockstar would be able to pull off a head to toe velvet ensemble covered in a swirling paisley print.

Looking at my stream of conscious notes on the show I had scrawled the name Jamie Hince (guitarist for the indie rock band The Kills) in the upper corner of the page.  So Van Noten’s message was evidently getting across loud and clear.

In the end this collection enveloped the body in a manner that was both comfortable and chic, and will certainly make many men very content next winter.

- Jessica Michault

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