Dries Van Noten Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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It was fitting that Dries Van Noten would choose an empty garage to present a collection that took its inspiration from the grunge style of the 1990s. The cavernous industrial setting enhanced this shows feeling of nostalgic melancholy for a movement cut short in its prime.

On pale faced models with ruby red lips and hair made to look like grown-out dye jobs, à la Courtney Love during her reign as the lead singer of the grunge band Hole, Van Noten created an ode to disheveled grace.

All of the codes of the Seattle born style were on the catwalk. The plaid flannel prints, mélange of menswear staples and floral patterned pieces, but in the hands of Van Noten those fashion fundamentals were transformed. His choice of fabrics, three-dimensional embellishments, and fluid shapes gave a romantic mood to the street born style.

So familiar flannel button down tops came in a number of faded shades, cut from semi-sheer chiffon, that floated about the body as loose pajama pants, maxi-dresses and transparent echoes of their original incarnation worn layered on the body. When the designer wasn’t mixing and matching plaids, he showed his mastery of prints via dusty colored floral pieces. Prints he ingeniously inserted into his plaid designs to counterbalance their masculine connotations. The textural embellishments like slim skirts adorned with whorls or fabric flowers, or silk bathrobes covered in floral patterned beading were other ways the designer introduced some feminine touches to his collection.

Van Noten produced a show that was an intellectual exploration of a modern iconic style of dress. He absolutely put his own sartorial stamp on the look and made it new again. Once more ready to take to the city streets.  

- Jessica Michault

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