E. Tautz Menswear Spring Summer 2013 London
From the very first look creative director Patrick Grant got us by the throat; front rowers visibly sat up and leaned in for a closer look as that cape, sharply cut and in vibrant fuchsia, opened the E. Tautz’s spring/summer show. As more shades of strawberry pink crept onto clean-lined jackets, tailored trousers, brogues, and from underneath black double-breasted blazers, we are quickly eased back into the brand’s signature aesthetic, only now aptly updated. In homage to the legendary British explorer Wilfred Thesiger who turned his back on Western civilization to explore Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, though never without a light Savile Row safari suit at hand, E. Tautz’s collection offered a complete traveller’s wardrobe, albeit one better suited for a sophisticated urban venture than a Royal Geographical Society expedition. The brand’s crisp and tailored classics are still very much there but are uplifted with pastel pink and yellow trousers, oversized ankle-skimming trench coats and show-stopping capes, injecting a modern streak in clothes whose prototypes already hang in the closets of ex-Etonians, like Thesiger himself, and offering the ideal summer garb for hip Londoners. The final line-up of tailored suits with highly cropped shorts playfully summed up this juxtaposition and showed once again that only brands that can reinvent themselves are here to stay.