Giorgio Armani is an urban designer who built his empire in part by creating functional and fashionable work attire for women. Clothing, in city shades of black, grey, navy and white, that would blend in seamlessly among all the power-suited menswear. So on Friday it was a nice surprise to see the designer use his Emporio Armani collection to explore vibrant color blends and more voluptuous silhouettes.
The equally potent jewel hues of sapphire, ruby and amethyst were the dominant shades of the show. Glowing against the dark backdrop of black-haired models and jet black runway, they appeared together as graffiti-esque Ikat prints, stripy short sleeve furs and abstract floral prints, or as a stand-alone shade for a sporty quilted coat, maxi mohair dresses or tailored leather jackets.
The other major story of this collection was how Armani wove volume into the mix. His pleat-fronted wide-cut trousers, that finished well above the ankle, worked best when paired with fitted tops and short jackets. Stiff fabric skirts stood away from the body and gave the gamine models more womanly curves. The designer also added judiciously placed undulating ruffles of fabric across a single shoulder or as a band over the arms of a top, to add an extra layer of femininity into the works.
This was a show that celebrated, even exaggerated, the curvaceous beauty of the female form. No more trying to blend in for these Armani women.