When Ermanno Scervino’s models came marching down the runway for the Fall Winter 2012/13 collection it seemed as if the cavalry had arrived. Strong looks and somber colours; olive, khaki and moss greens dominated the first part of the show along with heavy winter coats and high-waisted trousers tucked into knee-high boots. Bottle green was another shade that made its way onto a number of pieces including a structured pleated skirt and figure hugging dress.
As the show went on ensembles moved away from wartime greens to deep rich cordovan browns; soft leather trousers and dresses, double breasted winter coats and accessories were all dipped in the sophisticated shade. Later on came traditional Winter greys and blacks; sumptuous velvet coats with oversized fur collars, leather pencil skirts and strapless free-flowing bodices. Towards the end of the show came this season’s more risqué pieces – dresses using intricate lace detailing wrapped around the models' figures.
As for the collection as a whole it was clear that the tailored and polished look was the running theme. It worked. Models looked comfortable in what they wore with most outfits neither too tight nor too loose. When it came to accessories, models often sported riding hats and great pair of winter boots ready to march off into the distance.
- Pascale Barget