Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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The house of Ermenegildo Zegna is in a moment of transition. Designer Stefano Pilati (who was sitting front row at the show) just started his duties as Zegna’s head of design and creative director of its womenswear line Agnona a few days ago. So its understandable why this collection didn’t have the directional feel of a show being guided by the singular vision of a designer.

Instead Zegna fell back on what it does best, creating and implementing some of the most sophisticated and innovative fabrics being used in menswear today and shining a light on old favorites. New silk and cashmere blends for suits and something called Spazzolino, a alpaca fabric that Agnona debuted in the 1970s, were featured prominently in the collection which went with an urban palette of steely grays such as concrete, cement and charcoal.

Points of interest included the higher waistline on pants (particularly on eveningwear which extended into cummerbunds), the pullover puffy vests, and the almost scoop neck sweaters. But the real surprise was the brand’s choice to use a laser treatment on a mink coat and the velvet eveningwear to create textural patterns. It was rather audacious for a house famous for classically beautiful clothing. But it proved that Zegna is open to experimenting, which should be music to the ears of Pilati.

- Jessica Michault

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