Veronica Etro is on a bit of a roll. This season, the designer captured the l’air du temps with a collection that brought a romantic femininity back onto her family brand’s catwalk. But unlike other designers whose names will go unmentioned, she found a way to make the style uniquely hers and cleverly incorporate the heritage of her house into the mix in a subtle way.
But don’t be misled into thinking that this collection was filled with cloying clothing; quite the contrary. Etro gave her fluid floral dresses, cropped silk ribbon bomber jacks, and bias cut drawstring jogging pants an underlying sense of strength.
“In the end, I must say, it is not a sweet collection,” confirmed the designer in a preview of the show. “I am not a sweet person,” she added with a laugh. “I don’t like too much girly stuff.”
To help keep the sweetness in check, Etro looked to the world of ballet dance and the athletic power of dancers like Anna Pavlova or Nijinsky. Her more muted color palette, which steered clear of any shade that read too youthful, and the way she intentional kept the finishings of her garments unperfected helped to telegraph a nonchalant allure. This combination of strength and delicacy has a potent effect on the audience that was buzzing with compliments about the collection after the show.
It was wonderful to see Etro pushing herself by incorporating fabrics and embellishment techniques she has rarely used before. The results – like a crocheted top woven through with haberdashery ribbons, or one in leather covered in hand painted blooms – were artisanal craftsmanship at its best.
The perfect final touch to all of the bohemian potpourri flower printed chiffon dresses, botanical motif reversible silk robe jackets, and folksy iridescent plissé skirts were the lace up ballerina flats. Both practical and posed, they kept this beautifully carefree collection's feet on the ground.