The dark arts of creativity. Alchemy was certainly afoot today at Fendi as Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld's team delivered a very cool, dare one say edgy winters collection made from the brands signature elements, pelt and skins. Other textures were folded into the mix, a little velvet here, snake scale stockings there, cashmere wool and the 'chiffon' aligator skin that's au courant with luxury brands now. In amongst all of this there was all manner of other treatments such as laser embossed leather, buffed leather, pleating, draping... That sounds like a lot happening all at once but the image or silhouette worked. The Fendi woman resembled a modern Boudicca with long, thin plats falling either side of her neck, a plate across her waist and large ruched shoulders like expensive armour. Every look was a delight and overall reminded one of Alexander McQueen. Standout looks were the pagoda shouldered jacket, the panelled coat with Japanese neckline, the pleated skirts and those cleverly dyed fur coats that gave a trompe l'oeil effect enriched further but chosing different fur qualities to give texture and definition. Sublime.
- Sarah Hay (collection review)