Frankie Morello Menswear Spring Summer 2012 Milan
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A variation on culottes was one of the key ideas presented by Italian design duo Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti for SS12 and it came in blue denim, tangerine, beige and corn blue, colours that stretched across the entire collection. If the SS11 collection was all about camping it up on a techno beach then today’s show was all about zipping through capital cities on two wheels. It had a more international feel with technical sandals and detailing that reminded of Lanvin, thick soled shoes similar to Prada, wonderful colour blocked suits à la Jil Sander and see-through raincoats that evoked the finale of Burberry’s AW11/12 collection. The pairing of futuristic, sporty gladiator sandals with high cut, tapered trousers worked as did the dandy, lightweight, three-piece summer suit that came first in primrose and then a violet blue. Models looked trés urban with tight tracksuits under those oh-so-baggy culottes, as if they were to-ing or fro’ing from the gym onto the basketball court. Utility bags, belts and carabiner key-carriers accessorised everything. At the show, bicycles lined a half-pipe ramp behind the runway and cycling water bottles bearing the date of the show were spotted in the room, both clearly denoting this collections preferred mode of transport and surely what the extra room around the knees and thighs of the otherwise slim-cut trousers were facilitating: dashing through traffic on a bike.

 

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