Designer Gabriele Colangelo has a particular way of trying to grow his signature brand. Instead of designing collections that build on a specific style, distinctive shapes or hallmark features he starts each season fresh. Using the work of artists in other fields to give him his direction. This time it was the geometric water colors created by contemporary German painter Joachim Bandau that set him off on his new direction.
Once again Colangelo came up with a great concept. The almost x-ray images that saw geometric shapes layered on top of each other- think of a stack of printer paper scattered across a floor- became boxy dresses and skirts that would slowly shade down from black wool to white silk.
Other clever textile interpretations of Bandau’s work was done though the asymmetrical placement of squares of silk fabric down the front of a dress for a fringe effect or more subtly bringing together too flaps of rectangular fabric just at one tip to create a deeper expression of angularity in the garment. And there were two back to back looks that played on the collections central grid pattern motif, by first just representing it in an outline form but then developing it down the garment so the fabric was actually pleated to give each grid square a three dimensionality. These looks were seriously impressive.
As Colangelo’s family comes from the fur industry, the designer is always experimenting with the material. This time he tried to view it as an avenue for modern embroidery. This idea was most strongly felt on one roomy white techno fabric top that featured four squares of beaver fur. The fur had been placed to take advantage of the natural angular direction of the fur and its shaded coloring, to give a sense of twisted movement across the chest.
At this point in the game, there is no denying that Colangelo is a very talented designer. His craftsmanship is quite impressive and his love of textile exploration has resulted in some fine collections over the years. But now might be the right time for the designer to begin to look a little bit less for inspiration from artists around him and instead seek it out from within himself. For this house to grow there needs to be more consistency of vision from one season to the next.
Gabriele Colangelo Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2014
Gabriele Colangelo Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Fall Winter 2013
Gabriele Colangelo Fashion Show Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2013